Chapter 8: More Exploring, 2003
January plans
Josh
is to be Christened in March so we plan to travel south again. Some serious
‘forward planning’ is now required because of the ‘stoppages’.
BW are doing a lot of work repairing locks, bridges and tow paths. Some
parts of the canal will be de-watered. The closures start on 6th January
so we have to get to Cropredy before then. From there the canal is open
almost to Oxford. We won’t be able to return till mid March. Coal
& Diesel may not be so easily obtained so we left Braunston with a
full tank and hope to have got enough coal. Ivor ‘the coal’
plans to come south when the canal reopens. He warned us about the River
Cherwell flooding as it joins the canal at Aynho. If it is in flood we
may not get under a bridge before Aynho. Hope to be leaving the boat at
Aynho Wharf.
Flooding
We have got down to Cropredy and past the Napton and Claydon locks which are now closed till the 8th. of March. We saw that the river Cherwell has flooded. The canal is also well up to within an inch of the towpath with water rushing over the top of the next lock gate. A wet start to the year with over a hundred flood warnings through out the country. The road is flooded and several cars are pushing bow waves to get through up to their headlights. Water poring out of their doors as they come out. Then it got very cold. Down to -- 4 and ice formed around us. Terry & Myra paid us a visit on the way to their boat.
The ice melted, the river level went down a bit and we continued on to Banbury. Breaking thin ice on the way. Stopped in the centre by Tom Rolt’s bridge. Here, back in the 1940’s, he had a boat converted to live on and toured some of the canal system. Canal cargo was in decay and he wanted to keep the canal system working. He formed the Inland Waterways Association which has to this day done just that. A new shopping development has ‘sanitised’ the old boat yard.
Stuck in ice
The
visitor moorings are for only 24 hours. Hardly time to see the museum
and shops. However the ice formed overnight and we were forced to stay
for a week! Another boat called No Problem stayed as well. Multi story
car parks either side lit up at night. It is a bit public during the day
with people looking in at us. Children and parents? will throw stones
on to the ice. It is noisy when they try to break the ice. By the end
of the week the canal looked like a rubbish tip. We saw the cars come
and go. At night the youngsters gathered to play football in the empty
lit car parks. Mary & Ray came up to see us at Banbury and gave us
lunch on board. We walked round the park and down the canal to see shopping
trolleys, wheel barrows and buggies stuck in the ice. It was good to have
the shopping center close by during our stay. Luckily we had enough water,
diesel and coal to live with.
Internet ?
Got to know Vic & Sue on No Problem. Sue had gone off and found an Internet Cafe and set up a quiz about the Canal on her web site. Turned out that she knows a lot about the network and has designed her own web site for her business. Sue encouraged me get on the net. ‘Car Phone Warehouse’ provided the phone and lead and after a considerable learning curve and by the end of the week we were on line.
Melting ice
When
the canal rippled again the local mooring warden asked us to move on.
Got water below the next lock, moved on round the corner to find more
ice so we had to stop another night not far from Morrisons. On our way
Ann fished out a buggy and cleaned it up good as new! Thinking ahead for
our expected grandchild.
After collecting post we moved on down to Aynho. Passing the weir where the river Cherwell joins the canal. The level was such that we just got under the bridge by removing the chimney! Made arrangements to have some work done on the boat when we leave it for the Christening. Deddington is too far to walk so we asked for a lift in to the shop. Allan willingly obliged and bought us back as well.
No facilities
Continued on down to the Upper & Lower Heyford’s to discover that there are no shops or Post Offices near the canal. According to the locals the river Cherwell is threatening to flood into the canal here. So we turned the boat round to get back up the next day. Got above Somerton deep lock (12ft.) to be well above the river. It rained a lot during the day and we watched the river flooding over the fields either side of it.
We cant get back to Banbury yet! Back at Aynho we got diesel and a pump out. Their pump is unreliable so we decided to use the porter-poti. Then we needed gas. No gas, waiting for a delivery! Got some coal delivered so feeling a bit better. Cant empty the ‘poti’ cos the cesspool was full! Then the river went down so we got back to Banbury and used the BW facilities. Better now and got gas at the local boat yard. They are only open four days a week but at least their pump out works! We stopped short of Cropredy after travailing against a strong cold wind. Woke up to snow in the morning.
Plan for the summer
Our plan for this year after getting the boat blacked at Braunston, is to go to the Llangollen canal early to avoid the crowd. Then to the Stratford canal, through Warwick and down to Oxford. On to the Thames to Reading and the Kennet & Avon. Maybe stay for the winter if facilities let us. The restoration of that canal is now finished so it should be better. The I.W.A. are holding a National Waterways Festival at Beale Park near Pangbourne on the river Thames. Open to boaters and visitors alike on Friday 22nd. to Monday 25th. of August. We have booked our mooring there.
Post office
On
a sunny spring like day we moved up to Cropredy and more ice formed. Got
food and post here. The Post Office is in a private house and is run by
an elderly couple. They have a box of mail to be collected by many boaters
here and have got to know us. When we call for our post they give it to
us without asking. Almost accepted as a ‘local’. The river Cherwell
has shrunk to it’s normal level and is back in it’s winding
track. Several feet lower than it was.
Moved up to Claydon and stayed for a week. The locks here are closed and we walked up to see BW rebuilding the middle one of three. Water has been drained between the locks so you can see the muddy bottom. One complete side of the lock has been replaced by a thick wall of concrete and was being lined with brick. It is amazing how these structures have survived for so long. The brickwork on the next lock down needs a lot of pointing where normally it is under water.
Visitors
We’re running out of bananas milk and bread. Back at Cropredy we stock up, get water and loose the rubbish. Moor up and it got icy again. Pete and Deanna came up for the weekend when luckily it turned mild for a few days. Went for walks across the Cherwell valley and up and down the canal tow path and in to the village. We provided each other with food.
Before moving on we stocked up again and got some coal. Got through one lock and hit solid ice past the next bridge. Backed up to moor by a soft grassy bank which needed the plank to get off. The ice came and went through night and day forcing us to stay four days. Our post is being sent on to Banbury and we were anxious to get it. Our boat insurance needs to be paid soon but once the ice had formed it takes several mild days to melt it. This the first time we have been unable to move for a while in the middle of no where.
A long walk
TESCO is this side of Banbury so we decide to walk the 2 1/2 miles. It took an hour. There was a lot of thick ice on the way. We went with Allie so I sat outside watching people and their cars. An ever changing scene. I wondered how many people realized that a half frozen canal is not far away behind that row of trees. We have learnt to live without a car. "Good job we still have legs". The return trip was slower because our trolley wheels kept jamming up with mud off the tow path.
It stays light to 5 now, watching the sun go down. Two boats have passed us coming from Banbury. Must have broken up all that ice. But it froze again. A couple of ‘spring days’ later several more boats passed so we moved on down. Stopped below Hardwick lock by the woods. There is a path through the trees so that became our walk the next day. Then on to TESCO again, this time by boat.
Water from the reservoir passes under the canal so there is a good concrete edge to moor against so we can get to the shop. Although opposite the towpath, the waste land does belong to British Waterways. The council wanted BW to pay for a bridge over the road for safe access to TESCO here. But we had to climb over a locked gate and cross the road at a roundabout. Another example of a short sighted council. Got diesel at Sovereign boats. 32p a litre at the moment but is on the way up due to problems abroad. There are plans to improve the towpath either side of Banbury and to provide more visitor moorings.
Vandalism
We are enjoying the quiet countryside while lighting the coal fire to keep warm. But while stopping at Aynho for a delivery of coal, Ian told us about vandals at Claydon middle lock. This is the one undergoing a major rebuild. Apparently a digger was hijacked and ended up in the lock. While on the rampage it managed to damage the new brickwork, the lock gates and the roof of the old maintenance building. The re-opening date was only a week and a half later than planned. Thanks to British Waterways.
Bridge help
There are several lift bridges south of Aynho which are usually left open for boats to pass as they are in fields. We had moored out of sight of one when a boat passed us. Later there was a knock on the window. The lonely boater found the bridge down and asked for help. We both pulled down on the chain to lift it but it was stuck. A mooring pin used as a lever released it and the bridge slowly rose by itself.
After a day of light rain we walked across the field to watch the water rushing round the bends in the river. We had got over a drainage ditch to get there. Gradually the field became more soggy. A bit like the tide coming in. Had to get back over another bridge because we were cut off from the one we had used. While watching TV during a windy night the picture suddenly went snowy. The aerial had blown round! Had to get wet several times to adjust it.
Going home
We went ‘home’ to Winchester. Left the boat at Aynho Dock for engine maintenance and filling the old chimney hole in the roof. Chris came up with a borrowed ‘people mover’ with mum and Josh. Only 1 1/2 hours on the road. A week away to see Josh being Christened at Emery Down in the New Forest. A large family gathering in the Church Hall followed. We borrowed mums car to get about. Several days and late evenings were spent getting to know Josh at Eling. We fed, bathed and played with him.
Return to Aynho
Chris
had to go to Scotland for work on the Monday so he took us back to the
boat. An early start got us back by 9 o’clock. He continued on to
find a B & B on the west coast near Glasgow.
All work done on the boat at Aynho Dock so we were away. Claydon Lock is open early so we head back to Braunston stopping at Banbury for the shops.
The majority of ‘Winter Stoppages’ have been completed by British Waterways and there are more boats on the move. We saw Ivor Batchelor with his coal boat and Dave & Georgina going south. Spring is in the air and the daffodils are out providing a cheery sight where boaters have planted them along the tow path. We got some more pansies for our boxes on the roof.
War
War is not meant to be spectacular or entertaining so don’t expect it to be. There will be fortunes and misfortunes. Friends can become enemies and enemies can become friends during and after a conflict. World oil production is in decline and the consumers will fight for it.
Blacking
At
Braunston we had the boat out of the water for the second time. Pressure
washed and two coats of ‘black pitch’ paint on the sides above
and below the water line. The steel was in good condition. We are reassured
that the boat will stay afloat for another two years.
George & Magie from Bramble came to deliver a picture which we had asked George to paint for us. He copied a photo which I took last year. They are selling their boat and moving to Suffolk so sadly we won’t be seeing them again.
Mark and Margaret on Knot Normal are back from Spain and looking for more boat fitting work in London. He is a boat fitter and has done a lot for us in the past. Bob and Jane on Hobo are having yet more work done on their boat. They were never happy with what the builders gave them and just wanted to enjoy their retirement. They know all about dogs as they were judges at Crufts. Jane was kind enough to clip Allie’s claws for us. Mary and Ray came up to stay at Braunston and were just in time to see the boat re launched.
Birthdays
We moved on to Calcutt to meet Terry & Myra on their boat and celebrated Ann & Terry’s birthday while at Newbold near Rugby. A bunch of flowers from them are in the boat. We then traveled together northwards to Springwood Haven marina just past Nuneaton on the Coventry Canal. This is to be the new home for Butty Lark. The boat yard were able to sort out a few problems with our boat systems. Our friends turned round ready to return to Calcutt. The next day we went in opposite directions as we continue to Atherstone.
Walked to the medical center and booked a visit with the nurse. Come back this afternoon. Back in Hythe it would be next week ! Then took Allie to the vet for a check up. Given antibiotics for a slight infection.
Spring has arrived
Easter
weekend saw hot sunshine and every body out on their boats. Hire boats
near Tamworth are all lined up ready to go and going fast. They don’t
seem to go slow past other boats. Expect to see a boat at every bridge
where you slow to let it pass. While traveling we do some ‘fishing’.
With a net and a black bag we gather up loads of plastic bottles. Filled
up 3 bags this month.
We have of course seen many ducklings and lambs this Easter. A few heron as usual standing motionless looking for that fish. Then taking off in front of us, flying forwards and landing again. Only to repeat the act as we catch up with it. Then in the tree, a Jay. Quite large and colourful. While 5 buzzards were flying above.
The Coventry and Trent & Mersey Canals pass round several towns like Nuneaton, Tamworth and Rugeley. You travel past many back gardens of houses. Some are tatty but many are a sight to see. Full of colour this spring. Some gently slope down to the canal with grass and bedding plants. While others are terraced with brick walls and wooden platforms.
Crafts
We stopped a few nights at Great Haywood near Cannock Chase. Met Ian and Margery on Water Mouse. They make and sell lots of canal ware. She can paint roses on almost any useful hardware. Ian knits and makes stuffed toys. How do they find the time? Ann found the time and has made many Xstitch pictures to give away as gifts.
To Stone
It is our intention to travel over most of the canals in England. So far we have done most of the Trent & Mersey. So to do a bit more of it we moved up to Stone stopping on the way at Weston. A small village with a Post Office shop. A mile post near Stone indicated Shardlow 46 miles one way and Preston Brook 46 miles the other so we are half way. Stone was full of boats. Luckily we found a space below the lock and can stay one night. There is a turning point and a water tap here. There are not enough visitor moorings as most of the space is taken up by many permanent moorings. Next day after visiting the town we got water and turned round. Made difficult by lack of space and a boat mooring in the turn at the same time! What is it about holiday time congestion? Even canals seem to suffer.
To Market Drayton
Back
to the junction we turn right onto the Staffordshire and Worcestershire
canal. Then another right turn on to the Shropshire Union Canal. Eventually
arriving at Market Drayton six days later. On the way we passed the Shellmore
Embankment. Now open after extensive work to prevent the canal slipping
down the hillside.
Collected several packets of post at Market Drayton. A moorings code feedback form to fill in and send back to British Waterways. A chance to suggest improvements. Our Internet phone is working well now and proving to be cheaper than expected now that we are paying ‘as you use’ for the data. It is quite fast as well. We have got pictures from Chris & Tracy of Josh and even done some banking on the web. Also got some ‘postal voting’ forms but too late for Thursday’s elections. At least we tried.
The Shroppie
We are on the Shropshire Union Canal heading for Wales. There are 15 locks down past Audlem to the flat pastoral land beyond. Black and white cows graze on the lush green grass. You can hear the munch munch as they eat near the canal. It was very windy and there are few trees to provide shelter. The canal seems endless to the horizon crossed by several bridges.
Then suddenly a left turn to the locks, unseen as we pass a bridge. The canal continues to Chester here and we turn for the Shropshire Union, Llangollen branch. Four locks get us up 34 ft. by the side of the Hurleston Reservoir. The ‘Welsh’ canal delivers water to the reservoir from the river Dee at Llangollen. The water is used by two local towns but is not available for the locks. At busy times the locks can suffer from lack of water! The canal from Trevor to Hurleston was originally called the Ellesmere Canal.
Now we start discovering. There are many visitor moorings along the way with rings to tie to and mowed grass on the tow path. Very civilised. The water moves slowly towards us slowing our progress at the bridges where the canal is narrow. Passing several lift bridges and locks get us to Whitchurch. Useful for supplies at Tesco. A 20 minute walk away through Jubilee Park.
Cole Mere
We
continued to and stopped at Cole Mere. A huge lake surrounded by trees.
Beech, Ash, Birch, Fir, and Maple. Quite a variety. Took a walk down to
the lake to see sailing dinghies quietly gliding across the water. You
could hear the crew talking to each other and the sails flapping as they
changed tack. The woods were full of honeysuckle, blue bells, primroses,
cowslips, violets and rhododendrons.
Then to Ellesmere, another shopping town. A short arm takes us nearer the centre of town. Sadly the fine old warehouses are derelict where canal trading was carried out. We walked to see the Mere. A huge lake next to the town. An interesting variety of birds were seen including Ruddy Duck, Geese and Cormorants.
Up two more locks, the last of 21 in all along the total length of 46 miles. The next 12 miles are level all the way to Llangollen which is remarkable because the canal winds it’s way round hills, valleys and mountain rocks into Wales.
To Wales
At
Chirk the canal crosses a valley and plunges through a tunnel into Wales.
A railway crosses here as well. Both on grand stone viaducts. We walked
to Chirk Castle, 30 minutes up hill through the estate. A back road through
fields of sheep and lined with 36 oak trees which were planted for the
Coronation back in 1953. The castle gardens were a sight to see. The topiary
yews and hedges were magnificent. Several tons of clippings each year
are used to make a treatment for cancer.
Pontcyllte
The
approach to the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is along the edge of a deep valley
in a narrow concrete channel. Then turn right to cross it. No spectacular
views of the aqueduct to be seen. Just the water in front of us in a very
narrow metal trough. Nothing on our left making us feel a little insecure.
It is a long way down to the ground where the river Dee passes under.
The football pitch by the river looking so small. On the right, the tow
path and railings to stop the horse falling off. Trevor is one of those
places where every body comes to see the aqueduct. The village has one
shop. A hire boat company occupies the old wharf. It took ten years to
build the aqueduct, then the company ran out of money. To get a water
supply a navigable channel was dug to Llangollen much of it is only 2
ft. wider than the boat. When the canal got here the company ran out of
money. So much spent on the aqueduct! The intention was to continue to
Chester to get water from the river Dee there. We stayed a night here.
To Llangollen
The
canal company had to dig a narrow channel to the river Dee at Llangollen
to get the water. We moved on the four miles to Llangollen. The last 2
miles were narrow . Ann went on ahead to be sure no boats were coming
out as we followed a boat going in. At one point a shear rock face was
passed. We were both lucky to find a space as there was room for only
18 boats. At Llangollen the river Dee is several hundred feet below. A
turning point marks the end of navigation.
A
feeder continues on to Horseshoe Falls where the river Dee feeds 12 million
gallons of water every day into the canal. We walked the 2 miles in 3/4
hour with Allie to see the falls. A Steam train from Berwyn to Llangollen
got us back.
Having stayed two nights we left and several other boats also turned with us. Ann went ahead again to see that no other boats were coming in. At a passing point we waited as 3 boats went by. They continued even though we had told them about other boats behind us. The narrow canal is made more tricky by moored boats at blind bends. A few emergency stops prevented collisions with boats unseen till the last minute. We were glad to get out ‘alive’. Back over the aqueduct, past Chirk and into England. The Welsh hills and mountains receding into the distance.
The Monty, 13 Lock Miles to Maesbury
The
Montgomery Canal branches off near Ellesmere. The locks at Lower Frankton
are only open for limited times in the day and controlled by a lock keeper.
The canal heads back into Wales to Newtown through Welshpool but is not
all navigable. Only last month a further length had been opened at Aston
Locks making 7 more miles to explore. The canal passes unspoilt country
side and sights of special scientific interest but we did not see the
Otters or the special plants.
However, we did see Hawks in the air. It was obvious this was a newly opened canal. More weed and soft edges made progress slow. Had to stop the night at the new Crofts Mill lift bridge where we turned. An enterprising boat builder has already established his business here! We walked to the end of the navigable canal to see the muddy ditch continue to Welshpool. Makes you realise how much effort is required to open an old canal. The ‘Waterway Recovery Group’, a voluntary organisation, is mainly responsible for all the hard work.
On our way out of these ‘dead end’ canals we noticed many more boats coming in as we approach another bank holiday weekend. With the flow of water going in our direction it was quicker getting out.
Friends
By the end of the month we were nearly back to Market Drayton. When at Market Drayton we met John & Sue. They have a house with a mooring here where they keep Day Dream. We had known them from our time in Newbury where we both kept boats. They kindly offered to take us to the shops in their car. We collected post, went to the market and did the shopping. Then we admired each others ‘new’ boats and had a cup of tea.
Discovery
Having
done the northern canals we were ready to return south. We are a long
way north between Manchester and Birmingham. The Shropshire Union seems
endless again but it only took 3 days to get to Birmingham and on to the
Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal where this time we turn right to
go south. Now in ‘discovery’ mode as we have not been this way
before. This canal was opened in 1772. Coal from Cannock Chase was transported
to Stourport power station until 1949.
Through densely wooded country past Wolverhampton. Much of the canal is hidden from the town and clear of floating rubbish. We stopped at Norbury Junction and sorted out our application for a Gold Licence at the BW office. We need this to go on the Thames later.
Bratch Locks are built like a stair case. One lock goes directly into the next. Normally they share a gate between them. But here there are two sets of gates. A lock keeper helps you through and took note of our licence number. Between Bratch and Kinver is a lovely stretch of wooded canal. Winding round rocky ledges and passing over the River Stour.
Steep
sandstone edges have been cut back to make room for a lock. The sandstone
has even been hollowed out to make stables for several horses. Stourport
on Severn is at the end of the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal.
It was created as an inland port to transfer goods from the River Severn
to the Canal. Stourport in fact was a town created by the canal company.
There are still original 18th. century terraced workmen’s cottages
here. Now listed as ancient monuments and still lived in!
Engine service
Had our engine serviced here and were told that our batteries needed replacing. Our alternator has been ‘playing up’ so we had that sorted as well. The power system has done well lasting three years of almost continuous use.
Terry
& Myra paid us a visit here on their way to Myra’s sister. After
a meal in the local pub we walked round the basins and watched boats going
through the locks down on to the river.
We had not planned to stay so long as a week here. Originally we were to travel up the Worcester and Birmingham canal from Worcester. Then down to Stratford. A total of 181 lock miles and 15 days hard work just to avoid the rivers Severn and Avon. A friendly boater on the ‘Dale & Shire’ hotel boat persuaded us that the rivers are not difficult at this time of year and it was only 90 lock miles. So that is the way we went.
Rivers
A tale of two rivers. The magnificent Severn and the unique Avon. The Severn was used by the Romans. From deep in Wales down to the Bristol Channel. We can navigate it from Stourport to Tewkesbury. Below that the river becomes tidal. The huge locks are all hydraulic and operated by keepers. We went through four of them. At Tewkesbury the two rivers meet. Up on the Avon we pay for a special licence. The Lower and Upper Avon are controlled by two separate Trusts. The Lower Avon was reopened in 1964 and the Upper in 1974 both by the Queen mum.
River Severn
It
took nearly 2 hours to get down to the Severn. Five boats in the queue
to go down four locks in Stourport basin. Then we were on it. Wide, deep
and moving water. A culture shock. At the first lock two other narrow
boats got in with us. When the gates opened they left us behind in a rush
of speed at full throttle never to be seen again. We passed several pump
engines being used to irrigate the crops. A few engines were housed in
brick sheds but most were exposed to the elements.
3 hours later we had got to Worcester. Famous for sauce and crockery (Royal Worcester Porcelain). Nowhere to stop on the way but good moorings to be paid for by the race course. One night only. We walked into the city to find a post box. The first was blocked off in a rough area. Found another in a wall on the way back to the boat. Next day move on to Upton. Not much room. The only space was a rough floating pontoon up against a wall below a pub. This was our lunch stop. Almost impossible to get off for Allie to relieve herself. A barrier prevented access to the village so did not stay long.
Lower Avon
On
then to Tewkesbury and onto the Avon. A sunny Saturday afternoon to cheer
us up. Backed up at the top of the lock. A boater called to say he was
just leaving. Are we lucky or wot? A mooring for the night, or two as
it turned out. Access to the town is over the bridge. This is getting
better. Ann got me the latest Harry Potter book as I had just finished
the previous one. Next day a violent thunder storm so we stayed.
Next day we traveled up the Avon through 3 locks to one night public moorings at Great Comberton. The moorings are clearly marked with blue 4 inch steel tube to tie to. We walked up to the residential village with well kept gardens and a church. On our way to the next mooring we were nearly hit by a huge plastic boat coming fast round a narrow bend in the river. An elderly ‘captain’ hardly acknowledged our existence. Luckily I avoided contact. So far we see more narrow boats moving on the rivers. At Evesham there is a ferry crossing. Just a raft pulled across on a wire. Three toots on the hooter and the operator lowered the wire. Stopped the night at good moorings by Abbey Park. The town has a number of Tudor buildings and a modern shopping centre.
Upper Avon
The Upper Avon has all new locks. Made of steel and very ugly. They are wider than normal but just not wide enough to get 3 narrow boats in. Clearly designed for ‘plastic’ cruisers. Our next stop was at Bidford. A small village with all your needs. Then on to Stratford apon Avon. An obvious tourist trap. The river is full of boats and the town is full of people. Lucky to get a mooring under a tree. The shops were a long way from the river. We went to the theatre but did not go in!
On our first night we ‘lost’ our red boat pole. Some sod took it in the early hours. Tried looking for it in the morning, reported the fact to the Warden and put a notice in the window. We are not the first and only to suffer that night. The police had at some time arrested several people for being drunk and disorderly. Shakespeare was not a saint either.
Traveling on the rivers has been a rush. One night stops only and the best at or near locks. Most moorings were private. One week to do both rivers and we have saved some time for the rest of the trip.
One evening we noticed lots of Swallows swooping and diving over the water. Outside it was obvious that thousands of flies and insects were swarming. Glad to get inside again! Then a family of Canada Geese paddled by late in the evening. Mums, dads, uncles, aunts and children. Then a flock of homing pigeons all landed on the roof. After a short rest they were off again.
Stratford
In
June we were on the River Avon at Stratford. We got off the river and
up to Wilmcote on the Stratford Canal. It was here that William Shakespeare’s
mother lived. Mary Arden was the daughter of a farmer. A grand timber
framed farm house was thought to be the family house. But Latin documents
discovered in the 1990’s revealed that they had actually lived next
door! Luckily that house was purchased by the Trust before it was knocked
down.
On visiting the house we saw a demonstration of Falconry which included a European Eagle Owl which landed on Ann’s arm. A Snowy Owl called Ricky looked familiar. Perhaps better known to some as ‘Hedwig’ in the Harry Potter film.
The
Stratford Canal runs north to Kingswood Junction where it ‘kisses’
the Grand Union and continues west to Birmingham. There are many narrow
bridges with a gap in the centre. When boats were pulled by horses the
rope was passed through the gap because the tow path did not go under
the bridge!
Warwick
We need to go east down the Hatton flight of 21 locks to Warwick on the Grand Union canal. A welcome sign invites us into the ‘Saltisford Arm’. The remains of what was the Warwick and Birmingham Canal, now part of the Grand Union. A quiet place to stay but full of residential boats. We found space at the end. Handy for the shops. That night we were treated to a fireworks display from the castle. The castle was built in 1068 and is the finest medieval castle in England. It is owned by Madame Tussauds. On a walk round the town we saw many timber framed buildings. The castle was surrounded by a stone wall and trees so you could not see it all at once. The museum was closed because it was Monday! Up on the roads it became difficult to find the canal! It was so well hidden from view. Good job we knew it was there.
Passing through
Been
advised to rush through Royal Leamington Spa. A few new mooring provided
but among the backsides of industry or new residential sites where we
choose not to stop. On to TESCO where pathetic moorings prevented a stop.
All concrete and no rings to tie to ! Pass the old quarries at Stockton
which produced Blue Lias, a local stone used in the construction of the
Thames embankment. Huge fossils have been found in the clay which is the
lowest layer from the Jurassic period.
Saint Swithans
Now back in familiar territory, Napton and heading south. After several long travelling days we catch up with Terry & Myra on Butty Lark at Claydon on the Oxford Canal. Time to relax and enjoy a video and some home movies. It has been extremely HOT in July. All windows open and a fan on the fridge to keep it cool ! Where are those trees for shade. Outside was cooler in the afternoon. Tea towels hung outside the windows to keep the heat out. 100 F on the roof in the sun and 90 inside. Do we need to get used to it because St. Swithans was a very hot day ?
Heading south
TESCO is north of Banbury but the mooring was full so we continued on to the centre of town and got food there. There is another supermarket to the south of town but neither have welcoming signs for boaters despite being near the canal. Thrupp was a canal village but there is not much left of it apart from a pub and lots of ‘private’ moorings. Never mind. A good mooring was found by the lock further on. A walk across the railway found a supermarket in Kidlington not far away.
River Thames
We
are heading for the Thames and leave the Oxford Canal by turning right
on to Dukes Cut. This gets us on to the Thames without having to go into
Oxford and we turn north for Eynsham. The wind and river flow is against
us and the engine needs to rev up a bit. Have to get a special licence
from the Environment Agency at the next lock. The lock keepers are far
more welcoming these days. Holiday boating has reduced significantly and
the river needs more money to keep the lock keepers happy.
Despite
the extra costs it seems more narrow boat owners are moving on to the
river to look. The Royal River is a culture shock. Stop for the night
past the bridge. Here we are reminded of the time we first hired a long
narrow boat many years ago. The land owner asked us for money.
Next day we turned and headed south. Fine and sunny and less wind made the trip more enjoyable. Many sharp bends and a changing landscape. More Coots than Moorhens. Passing through Oxford we see Hobo from Braunston and exchange greetings. Got to Abingdon and stopped near the lock on free moorings! Abingdon was the home of Morris Garages (MG cars). Many other places were visited on the way to Reading where we turned right on to the Kennet & Avon canal. A total of seven days since joining the Thames.
Locks and swing bridges
We head up the navigable river Kennet to Newbury. There are many locks and swing bridges on the way. Ann and Myra doing the locking together while Terry and I drive the boats into the locks. As we progress we are reminded of happy times together on Nomad of Erehwon. Two stops later we were in Newbury. Some improvements were noticed like new push button swing bridges, but at least one old set of lock gates remain encrusted with weed.
We left our boats in Ham Manor Basin, the very same place we used to keep Nomad. She was still there in a sorry state having been damaged by fire. We hired a car to get to Winchester to attend a funeral and our friends went home to family.
The I. W. A. Festival
We
returned to the boat in August and set off back to the Thames to attend
the Inland Waterway Association’s national festival near Pangbourne.
Stayed over night in Chestnut Walk, Reading with Butty Lark along side
with many other boats, a quiet retreat near the entrance to the Thames.
The local supermarket has moorings on the Thames and there were so many
boaters shopping that they ran out of bread ! 650 boats got to the festival
from all over the canal system causing traffic jams at the locks.
As we approached the mooring our ‘harbour master’ called out “You’re here”. Paul is a volunteer for the IWA and is responsible for a group of about 20 boats. He stayed to ensure the boats security. We are three boats out from the edge with three more to arrive later. Got to know our new neighbours as they arrived. As they walk ashore the boats wobbled. It took 20 minutes to walk to the show ground which was open from Friday to Monday.
Mum came up with Brod to enjoy the activity. Our program of events indicated many activities to see from motor bikes ridden by 4 to 16 year olds to historic boat parades. Dramatics in a theatre tent to Punch & Judy. Classic cars & steam lorries. Many new boats on display to walk through. On the last evening we saw lots of boaters driving their illuminated boats down the river in the dark. Much effort by all making it an event worth seeing. We met up with many friends on their boats.
Letchlade
After
the I W A show on the Thames many boaters were encouraged to travel up
river to Letchlade. We were told that special moorings were provided for
the extra numbers of boats. The Thames above Eynsham Lock has many sharp
bends in it. Some bends were shallow and we got stuck more than once.
The lock keeper gave us a flag on a ‘whippy rod’ to be attached
to the roof of the boat so we could see where other boats were. The flag
could be seen moving across the fields. We arrived next weekend as many
boats were coming and going. Where are those special moorings? Some signs
indicated ‘No Mooring’ but eventually most of the half mile
of bank had a boat beside it. Trip boats and hired motor dinghies were
travelling up and down the river making more wash than we could.
The
gathering of boats here is to celebrate the start of the restoration of
the Cotswold Canal system. This would take ten years to complete and connect
the Thames to the Gloucester Canal. We collected our free ‘Medallion’
from the local pub having read a coded message sited at the end of navigation.
We sat outside the boat ashore in brilliant sunshine with Terry & Myra. Enjoying an evening meal and watching the sun go down. The moon rose with Mars now at it’s closest, large and bright. Next day we parted, our friends going north on the Oxford canal while we go south on the Thames back to the K & A.
Regatta
As
we passed through Wallingford we watched the local regatta. Had to travel
down the ‘wrong’ side of the river. Two boats with four rowers
each were racing towards us as we passed the finish line going the wrong
way. Then we stopped at Beale Park and paid a visit. First a ride on a
train then a walk round to see many varieties of bird and animal. On returning
to the boat we noticed another boat had squeezed in behind ours. It was
Ohmega belonging to our friends John & Jean. We exchanged stories
of our adventures over a cup of tea.
As we travel on down the Royal River gets ever wider, lock keepers welcoming us in. Now usually two boats at a time and once on our own. Got a mooring at TESCO’s as another boater leaves. After shopping we get off the Thames and back on to the Kennet and Avon. The Thames has now been ‘done’ from Letchlade to Reading. Reading to Henley was cruised in Nomad back in 1997. Getting the gold licence has proved worthwhile this year. Grebe, heron, king fishers, swans and cormorants have all been seen on the Thames and a survey is being undertaken to find out how many mink there are. The returning Otters will drive mink away from their territory.
Back to the Kennet and Avon
On our own at Chestnut Walk for a quiet evening. Heading west we stop at Aldermaston for an engine service. Nearly done 3000 hours. Then stop at a bridge where we set to work painting the roof. Cleaned out the fire and swept out the chimney. Now need to find some coal to get set for the winter. Then Vic and Sue stopped by for a chat on their boat No Problem. They were last seen back in January at Banbury, had kept in touch and wanted to spend the winter here. We wanted to go home for Josh’s birthday so agreed to meet again near Hungerford.
Left the boat at Newbury again in order to see family and hired another car. The company have an office in Winchester so we only need to hire for the day we travel. Once home we can use mum’s car. Good to see our grand son again, now one year old. The party was in the Church hall and many children with their parents came to enjoy the ‘Jungle’ event. Chris n Tracy had made palm trees and blown up balloons to make parrots. There was music and organised games like ‘Pass the parcel’. Spent some more time with Josh and family before returning to the canal.
Back to boat
On our return we filled up with diesel and water at Newbury Boat Company but they had no coal. The locks are large and were hard work as we proceeded to Kintbury. At the Post Office we asked about getting some coal delivered. A customer was kind enough to recommend one back at Thatcham. Several misty mornings indicate the subtle change to autumn. The fire being lit for a few hours some evenings using coal left over from last winter.
More coal delivered
Turned round and headed back to Newbury Wharf. A call to the coal yard discovered that they would deliver to Newbury. The small lorry turned up early and we had to move across the canal before finishing our breakfast. Never mind, it is good to know we can get coal while on this canal. We can get diesel at Newbury and Aldermaston.
We are trying to get used to this canal because it is closer to the south coast so maybe family will visit. But there are many more locks to go through. One every mile. Visitor moorings are limited to a two day stop but we have found many places where we can stay longer. The visitor moorings have good edges and bollards or rings to tie to. Facilities are much better than they were. BW are providing self pumpout machines at several villages but you have to remember to pay for a card in the town to use it.
Visitors
Mum
got a National Coach from Winchester to Newbury. The bus station was not
far from the canal so we could walk back to the boat through the shopping
mal. We spent a few days going to Kintbury and back. It was sunny n mild
for October which made for an enjoyable comfortable time. Mum used our
bed while we were on a pump up mattress by the fire. There were over 60
swans in Newbury and during the trip we saw a family of swans, a kingfisher
and many ducks. We returned to Newbury and got the coach back to Winchester
which was easy for mum.
We
wanted to go a bit further to Hungerford. Chris and Tracy with Josh arranged
to visit us there a few weekends later. So we set off slowly. Time to
do some work on the boat and spend two nights at each stop. Ann got a
flu jab at Kintbury. When at Hungerford we passed Sue & Vic on No
Problem. We had to go up several locks to turn the boat round for our
visitors next weekend so did not stop.
Just past the turning point the ‘Navigation’ was temporally closed due to water shortage and some boats were seen waiting. Someone had left the lock open and let the water out! Here, above the river feed, the water comes from a reservoir which is very short of water. Luckily there was enough water to turn and we returned to Hungerford and stopped near No Problem. Sue & Vic were pleased to see us again.
We managed to get a fire guard as our little visitor is walking now. C T and J arrived after traveling 40 minutes up the A34 and A4 to find us. Another warm sunny day and a trip down one lock and lunch at the next with Josh and his Mum and Dad on board. It was fun to walk down the tow path with Josh and family. Back at Hungerford we stopped next to No Problem again and said good by to our visitors.
Car rescue
Next day a car nearly went into the canal. Its boot was under water! The man from British Waterways and others prevented it from going further in until the fire engine and a crane arrived. Ann and Sue went down with cameras and took pictures. Sue also has a mobile phone which takes pictures! Back on No Problem we were able to see the pictures and a short movie on Sue’s computer.
Sue & Vic wanted to get to Aldermaston for a service and we needed a spare belt for the engine so we agreed to go together. Much easier with two boats and crew to do these double locks. A week later we were in Aldermaston. On the way we stopped at several favourite places including Widmead Lock. There is a wild life park here to walk round.
Network quiz
While
down at Aldermaston we were entertained on No Problem by visiting a ‘chat
room’ on Sue’s computer. Several friends sending ‘live’
text to each other on the ‘Network’. It all appears in a ‘window’
on the computer screen. Sue was quiz master popping questions and the
friends were providing answers. I was trying to keep a score of the two
teams ‘Elves’ and ‘Fairies’. We returned to our boat
at midnight! Next day we both move towards Newbury. Vic& Sue continue
west while we stop for a wedding.
Wedding
Much to be done to get there. Thankfully the boat can stay in the marina at Newbury Boat Company and we have booked a car for the long weekend. Once in Newbury we go shopping for suitable clothes for the occasion and get a gift for the happy couple. Ann had made a Cross Stitch wedding card. After moving in to the marina we got the car and packed it with clothes, cat, dog and food out of the fridge. Switch off boat batteries and gas and set off south.
We stayed with George and Ann and next day we take them to the wedding at Alton and Frensham Ponds and did not get lost once! Interesting to see all the men in Kilts. It was a bitterly cold day and we felt sorry for Katherine and the bridesmaids while having their photo’s taken. So Jeffrey now knows what is under a Kilt! Hope it kept him warm. Once at the hotel we warmed up and had a jolly good meal. Pete did well with his speech getting a few laughs.
Back to the canal
Then we got back to the boat, returned the car and moved back on the canal. Got some winter pansies to plant in our pots on the roof. A few handy mole hills providing some good earth. We received some sad news about our friends on Watermouse. Ian had died suddenly in hospital. He and Margery made knitted toys and painted roses on boats and small items. Always busy selling in the summer. Must try to see Margery soon. Meanwhile we drift about going east and west. Getting coal delivered and filling up with water, diesel and gas at Newbury. Did our Christmas shopping. A jolly time of year with lots of interesting things to see and buy.
Family visit
Then a day when it all went wrong when cooking and cleaning preparing for a family visit. Our vacuum cleaner ‘Henry’ used all the power from the batteries, the fridge complained with a flashing light, the gas ran out and the sponge in the oven went flat! Next day we had a total of 6 people for lunch. Unfortunately it was a very wet day and we could not take Josh to the playground in the park.
Saving the canal
As you may know this canal has had 25 million pounds from the lottery fund spent on it over the last 6 or so years. We expected better than we found between Reading and Hungerford for that is all we have done so far. There are still many locks with gates which have holes in them! If it wasn’t for the covering of weed the water would pass through them. I have listed at least 5 which need attention and a further 6 are to be replaced this year. This canal has wide locks. They take longer to fill up and there is one almost every mile. Room for two boats side by side. OK if you can find another boater to travel with. If it wasn’t for meeting Vic & Sue on No Problem we would lead a lonely life here. Some boaters come out of the marina at the weekends. At this time we are not encouraged to spend another winter down on this canal.
Kintbury
By the end of November we had got to Kintbury. A little village with a Post Office a Baker and a Medical Centre. Jane and Cassandra Austen were known to the Reverend Thomas Fowle and often stayed at the Rectory. At the end of the 1700’s the K & A canal had passed Kintbury but had not yet reached Bath.
We used the ‘facilities’ here before continuing on to Hungerford. Coblers Lock is still closed and waiting for new gates so we cannot get past. Our friends Sue & Vic on No Problem are waiting at Pewsey. We collected post and went to the Launderette.
Hungerford
Then set about putting up Christmas decorations in the boat. Hungerford has also decorated the street which runs up under the railway bridge which is festooned with lights. A tall Christmas tree just beyond the bridge draws you up the street. A town band plays carols at the weekend. The town is known for it’s ‘Victorian Evening’ held every year. A damp evening did not stop lots of people arriving to see the steam engines, helter-skelter and Ferris wheel erected in the street. Several people dressed up in top hats and black coats and most of the shops were open for inspection. A person dressed as Charlie Chaplin was blowing up balloons for the children.
We looked for the Bell Ringers but did not find them before they had finished in the Methodist Church. Mince pies and coffee were on offer. Then it was time for the fireworks. Back in the boat by then. Very loud bangs sent all the ducks into a frenzy and the water got very stirred up. The rockets were exploding directly above us. People gathered on the canal bridge to watch.
Got another delivery of coal while at the wharf. We continue to cook on the fire. Lovely stews heating slowly all day. The kettle sits there singing just off the boil. It once got down to minus 6 F. Having the fire going is quite comforting. Between October and May we burn about a ton of coal.
New gates
When
Coblers Lock opened we went up past it through the smart new gates. A
small water vole was seen by Ann swimming round in the lock. I came to
the rescue with a fishing net into which the little creature jumped and
was lifted to safety above the lock. It was a damp day and a fishing match
was in progress. So many in fact that we had difficulty finding a space
to moor. Even the turning point was occupied. The fisherman got upset
when we turned there stirring up ‘his’ fishing spot. Just moved
here to get a different view from our window.
Go home for Christmas
We returned to Hungerford to get water and awaited the arrival of our guests. Tracy, Josh and Mum arrived and fed the ducks. We all had a meal on board before walking round the shops. Ann and I took turns pushing Josh round in his push chair. A bright sunny winters day was enjoyed by all.
Then our friends Vic & Sue arrived and we discussed our future traveling plans over a cup of tea. It seems that we both have the same desire to get to Bath and back early next year. Two stoppages on the Caen Hill flight and at Semington mean that we need to get past there before the end of January.
Then it was Christmas and we all packed and left the boats above the lock at Hungerford. It was a quiet spot away from the public and several other boats were being left as well. Tracy kindly came to fetch us in the car. Water was drained from the pipes in case of frost, electric & gas turned off before we left. Cat, Dog, luggage, food from the fridge and us all piled into the car. Tara the cat travels in a wire cage. An hour later we were in Winchester.
While we were away we had to go to our medical centre in Hythe for our
annual check up. Ann had a blood test the result of which indicated that
she has mild form of rheumatoid arthritis and is waiting for an appointment
with a ‘specialist‘. We spent much of the time with Joshua at
his home playing with his new toys. We all had Christmas lunch at Winchester
with Mum. She did remarkably well with all our help. Went to Hythe again
to see the new cruise liner Queen Mary over at Southampton.
Thank you for reading Chapter 8. Return to Book.