COLD
N ICYChapter 7: The Pennines, 2002
COLD
N ICY
Braunston. For the first 14 days we had ice on the canal. The air temperature had gone down to -–7 c. for 4 nights. At first the ice was quite thin and we were breaking it away from the side of the boat. But it got much thicker by the end of the week. No boats could move. Some poor souls got stuck some way out of town with no facilities. Even Ivor ‘the coal’ could not do his usual delivery round and had to get the wheel barrow out. We were running short of water and got out our big water container. Using our trolley it took 7 trips over a couple of days to fill the tank from 1/4 to 1/2 full. Enough for another week. The temperature got above zero during the second week and most of the ice had gone by the end of it.
While at Braunston we got to know Barry on Pulse. He purchased our folding bike and roof box as we had not used them for some time. Mary & Ray paid us a visit in their camp a van. They can park it in the marina and get electric and water. We took them down the South Oxford and gave them lunch on board. It was good to be able to move again. We had ordered filters for our engine in December and once the ice had cleared we were able to get the 1000 hour service done in the Marina.
A SMALL REFIT
We arranged to meet Mark & Margaret on Knot Normal at Brownsover near Rugby. What with rubbish in the canal, some lack of water, and BW’s un-planned stoppage, they had a bad time getting through Birmingham. The canal in the centre of that city is kept clean every day and is very secure but as always it is the edges of town that are the worse for rubbish.
Mark has spent a week on our boat adding a cabin cupboard unit, sliding bathroom door and making the bed wider with a lift up flap. Not having a door opening into the bathroom has made it seem much bigger. Although we still have a 4 foot mattress, moving it out 6 inches helps. The cabin unit has drop down doors which serve as small tables for our morning coffee. Our wind up radio, some books and medication will be kept in the cupboards. While in the working party mode we managed to move one of our radiators. Now the table can fit under the gunwale giving more floor space.
Mark finished his work inside but we continue in working party mode varnishing all the new wood. Then we got a new mattress. A tight fit through the 4 ft. door! We discussed some more changes with Mark and he will be available again later in the year to help. In the meanwhile we get on with more changes ourselves. We have cut off the top half of the saloon cabinet!! It was never used as a drop down table as intended. No screws were used to hold the thing up against the side, which left a clean wall. The only problem was a gap in the ceiling and noticed that there is room for more polystyrene . We reckon both sides of the ceiling needs it the full length of the boat.
MESS N RUBBISH
Despite all the signs and regulations designed to keep us safe and healthy we humans seem intent on ignoring them. In order to protect our boat we are obliged to clean up round it. Mainly doggy doo’s on the ground and bottles & cans in the canal. We’ve used an empty coal bag and filled it with rubbish while at Rugby.
OXFORD CANAL
When the Oxford Canal was first built it followed the contour of the land. Later it was made shorter with deep cuttings and embankments. Some of the unused sections remain ‘in water’. The ‘Brownsover’ arm is near here and provides a good walk along it’s tow path. A new road bridge has been built over it with sufficient clearance for a boat if ever the arm was to be used again. Brownsover is where Sir Frank Whittle invented the jet engine.
We moved on up the canal to Brinklow and had some fish & chips before continuing to Rose Narrow boats at Stretton. The boat yard provided us with 2 sheets of polystyrene. We spent the rest of the month cutting it all up and putting it all in place. While at Stretton we explored another ‘arm’ like the one at Brownsover. A stretch of unused canal left when the Oxford was shortened. It’s about 1/3 mile long. There are many hire boats stored there and near the end is the old Wharf. The buildings are now used as workshops for the repair of old working canal boats.
TRAVELLING
WITH FRIENDS
Terry & Myra joined us back at Rugby, moved up to Newbold and played a game of Mahjongg. The canal used to take another course here past the pub and by the church where we found the old unused tunnel half buried under a new road. The ‘new’ tunnel takes the canal north west. We were heading north again so Terry could arrange some painting later next month but the person he needed to speak to was away so we decided to turn and go south with them for the rest of the week. Back to Braunston, up the flight of locks and through the tunnel. Spent a night at Norton Junction where Ann made dinner for our friends on board. We’re on the Grand Union now with wide locks so both our boats can go in together. We proceeded down the Buckby flight and stopped at Weedon. The weather was not kind. A strong cold wind and some horizontal snow made it a challenge.
Our friends needed to get back to Ventnor Farm Marina and next day we agreed to part company and continue south to Bugbrooke. It was another windy day. We arrived safely after a testing trip on our own. There is a good Pharmacy and Surgery here and Ann got to see a Nurse for her Asthma check. We continued with our ‘refit’ and also had enough polystyrene to cover the water tank. In the hope that it will make it warmer up front. Cutting up polystyrene is a messy business! It gets everywhere. Good job it’s white so you can see where it is. Went through the boat several times with the vacuum cleaner.
BRAUNSTON
Several of our boating friends are moving south on the G. U. but one couple on Bramble joined us to go up the Buckby locks as we return north to Braunston. Once there we visited friends in the marina before catching the bus to Daventry to shop at Tesco.
The engine needs a service so was booked it in at the marina again. It was a bit windy and it proved quite tricky backing the boat into the marina. Ian does a good job for us. This time the belt was changed having done over a 1000 hours and was showing it’s age. It has done well considering it can generate enough power to run the washing machine. We have learnt to heat the water up using the diesel boiler before using the washing machine. This saves electrical power which we are short of.
WIND
We went down to Calcutt junction. Intended to go further but the wind grew to gale force so stopped and ‘battened down the hatches’. Our front cover was blowing out like a balloon so it was tied down with rope. The canal was like a very choppy sea with breaking waves. A few days later it was calm bright and spring like and we did some gardening. Last years pansies were planted out by the tow path. We often see daffodils and other garden flowers along the tow path. New bulbs were put in our pots and fresh pansies were put in an ‘orange’ box supplied by the butcher in Braunston.
CANAL OR ROAD
There are many working boats still making a living on the canals. Ivor and Mel supply and deliver coal and diesel to many boats found moored along the Oxford canal. It may be interesting to note that a 45 tonne lorry can carry 25 tonnes of cargo while a barge can carry 300 tonnes, 12 times as much. While the barge travels at 4 miles an hour in one direction the lorry would have to travel there and back 24 times to carry the same amount of cargo and would have to travel at 96 miles an hour to keep up!
VISITORS
Terry and Myra came by car from their boat to pay us a visit. They told us they intend selling their boat and are looking for a shorter one. We watched a recording of ‘Water World’, a program about people and their boats on the canals made by Carlton TV in the midlands. It was narrated by Timothy West, he and Prunella Scales being keen boaters on the canals.
Chris Tracy and Mum came up to see us and we had lunch at the ‘Old Plough’ in Braunston. Our son and daughter in law are looking forward to a happy event later in the year. As we all are!
THE
BIG TRIP NORTH
We have planned to travel north over the Pennines this year. So were off heading first for Whaley Bridge in Derbyshire on the Peak Forest Canal. We go via Market Drayton on the Shropshire Union because we went that way last year. The March winds have blown out and it has been dry and calm making for a pleasant start to our trip.
Atherstone had been known for it’s felt hats for 300 years. The last factory, Wilson & Stafford, closed in 1999. Rugeley is an ancient market town near Armitage. The Armitage tunnel had it’s roof removed in 1971 because of mining subsidence. It is very narrow and cut through sandstone. Spode House is near by, the former home of a pottery family. Further on is Great Haywood junction where we turned left for Stafford. Continuing north here would get us to Stoke on Trent but we may not get through a very low tunnel.
Got to Market Drayton in 12 days and covered 143 lock miles. Travelling on the North Oxford, Coventry, Trent & Mersey, Staffordshire and Worcestershire and Shropshire Canals.
Moving on we continue in discovery mode down several locks to Audlem in Cheshire and on to Barbage Junction where we turned right for Middlewich. It is Easter now and many boats are out and about enjoying the fine weather. While getting water at the junction a boat was seen trying to go straight on and came to a sudden stop. Going so fast the boat would not turn the corner and hit the concrete.
WILD LIFE
On our travels we have heard the sky lark many times but not the cuckoo yet. Various types of duck live on the canals. They seem to come in many different mixtures some not to be found in the book. Canada Geese in their groups and Brent Geese have been seen. Several swans of course, some quite vicious towards other swans and ducks. ‘Ratty’, the water vole is very rarely seen if at all. Herons are majestic when seen taking off and flying past the boat. You have to be quick to see the blue flash of a King Fisher as it flies ahead. A young cormorant has been seen as have woodpeckers. Snow drops, primroses, violets, trees and bushes in blossom, catkins and pussy willow. Oh Yes, spring is here!
Our dear Queen Mother has just died and we see many flags at half mast. The nation will miss her smiling face.
MIDDLEWICH
Having travelled every day we stop for a few days rest. It is a good thing to put the clocks forward for we have been getting up too early already. We are in Cheshire. Home of a smiling cat and some nice cheese. Cows are seen enjoying the lush green grass.
Got to Middlewich and found some good shops. Then a coal boat went by and we got some more bags. Still got the fire going. The Romans found salt here and so did we. Turned right on to the Trent and Mersey and went past the ‘British Salt’ works. Saxa and Bisto are made here. I think the salt is pumped out with water as brine. “Are you worth your salt”? Part of a roman’s pay was salt which is why you earn a salary. They had a camp here called Salinae. The suffix ‘wich’ indicates a salt town but I don’t know how salt came to be under the ground so far from the sea.
SALT,
SILK AND COTTON
How do you get from salt to silk? By going from Middlewich to Macclesfield. It took us 5 days. Rising from 90 feet to 380 feet. 42 deep locks got us up ‘Heart break hill’ eventually turning on to the Macclesfield canal. In case you are wondering they manufactured silk in the 18th century. Even tuned into ‘Silk FM’ on the radio.
The Macclesfield canal, surveyed by Telford in 1825, links Stoke on Trent with Manchester and is a ‘cut & fill’ canal. It was used to carry coal to and cotton from the big mills at its northern end. The canal has very pretty scenery all the way and breathtaking when crossing high aqueducts. Like flying over the trees and rooftops. The canal has good firm but mostly shallow edges so we could not stop to admire the view.
We stopped at Congleton and found the ‘Queens Head’ pub where we had a meal. Then went shopping. Canal, rail and road cross each other here. The stone canal bridge is almost lost under the iron railway bridge and both are dwarfed by the high concrete road bridge. They show some lack of respect for each other. Boseley locks are made of stone blocks like many buildings in these parts. Many blocks had the stone masons marks on them 12 locks in a mile taking the canal up 120 ft. to 500 ft. above the sea. Providing a grand view of the country.
At Macclesfield the original HOVIS mill by the canal no longer makes bread. A sign informed us we could only stay 24 hours and the town centre is a long way down the hill. Both water points were occupied by half sunken boats. What is it about large towns? Needless to say we did not get to see the Silk Museum. Bollington’s Clarence Mill was used for cotton spinning in the 1850’s. The raw cotton was shipped from Liverpool via various canals to the Mill. The cotton thread was then sent to the cotton weavers at Manchester. The old brick building is now used by many different industries. An old coal mine at Higher Pointon caused the canal to subside. The old bridges which collapsed now have flat tops which were built up to maintain clearance for boats to pass under.
GOYT
VALLEY
The Macclesfield canal ends at Marple where it joins the Peak Forest Canal. Here locks go down to Manchester but we continue at this level going round to the west side of the hill. Into sunshine and get a glorious view across the Goyt valley to see the foot hills of the Pennines. A boat yard at New Mills provided us with a pumpout. Then we walked down to find the town and huge stone bridges carrying road and rail over the Goyt river valley. Continued on to the end of the canal at Whaley Bridge. Lifting and swinging a few bridges on the way. We are here because our mains inverter has been recalled by the manufacturer even though we have had no problems with it. The supplier here promised to replace the whole thing. Good to know there are some companies who care for their customers.
BUGSWORTH
The canal branches off to Bugworth but it is closed to boats due to a leak. We noticed that the water was dark. There are some cottages here called ‘Tea Pot Row’. Apparently the original residents used to empty their tea pots into the canal ! In the 1800’s lime stone was quarried in the hills here. It was carried down to the canal on a railway where it was burnt in kilns to produce quick lime. Narrow boats were used to deliver coal as fuel for the kilns then left loaded with lime. The protected site is of great interest to industrial archaeologists.
MARPLE
LOCKS
Back at Marple we went down 214 ft. through 16 deep locks towards Manchester. All in the space of a mile. Got stuck when filling the next lock due to lack of water. Not unusual in this flight of locks aparantly. While waiting to float off another boater used the lock which took even more water ! Just had to wait for more water to come down from the top. The boat just floated off when the BW men turned up. Now in their blue uniforms instead of green.
EVENINGS
Once we have ‘arrived’ we settle down to an evening of entertainment. Stick up the aerial point it in some direction for best picture. As we passed round Birmingham it usually pointed at the big city and received Carlton or Midlands. Now near Manchester we get Granada or North West. Some times a bit of Welsh. But not always get a clear picture!
PREPARE
TO PIONEER
The next canal has only been open a year so we need a full stock of supplies. We shopped at Romiley and got diesel at the next boat yard. Our gas had just ran out but they did not have any. Should be OK for 3 months with the one we are now using. Stopped at a park near the end of the Peak Forest Canal which seemed quiet but some ‘yob’ had to throw an egg at the boat that evening. Why !! Too near the big city of Manchester.
The Huddersfield Canal is a link between Manchester in the west and Huddersfield in the east over the Pennine hills. 30 years ago the canal was an abandoned ditch and was reopened in May 2001. Originally opened in 1811. From the west 32 locks climb up to the summit through the Tame Valley. Standedge Tunnel is Britain’s highest at 645 ft. above sea level, the longest at 3 1/2 miles and the deepest at 638 ft. below Marsden Moor. Due to lack of ventilation you are not allowed to drive through. An electric tug tows several boats through. Then 42 locks gets the canal down the Colne Valley in the east to Huddersfield at 100 ft. above sea level. When the canal was built several reservoirs were made at the top to supply the water. BW never dreamt that the canal would ever open and sold them to the Water board. Now they have to pay for the water used by the canal !
HUDDERSFIELD
NARROW
At the end of the Peak Forest Canal we turned right on to the Huddersfield canal. It was raining as we faced a huge pile of stones which appeared to block our way to say nothing of the rubbish floating on the water. Are we meant to proceed? The first two locks were operated hydraulically. The gates had no arms because a road had been built too close to the lock. It was hard work winding them open and shut. The lock was surrounded by barbed wire fences. The first 6 locks were full of rubbish. At the new shopping centre rubbish prevented a gate from fully opening. It was a Saturday and shoppers were watching our every move and not really helping. These locks are brand new and all made of clean stone blocks. We managed to stop for lunch away from the shoppers.
After removing string and plastic from the prop we leave Manchester behind us. We were looking for some where to stop near Mossley but could not get near the edge. This is a feature of this canal. Much of it is waiting to be dredged. It was raining as we went up yet another lock in the hope of finding a deeper edge by the pub. No such luck! Finally stopped near Quick. Along side a lonely boater moored 3 ft. from the edge. Up 17 locks in 5 miles on the first long day. At 500 ft. the view across the valley was spectacular.
UPPERMILL
Lock 21W is approached under a wide road which is close to the lock. So close in fact that one gate has no beam. It is opened with a course rack and pinion gear. Stopped at Uppermill with space to moor against a rocky edge. A trip boat, 2 hotel boats, us and another double parked stayed the night. Could have done with a water tap if nothing else. There are recycling bins in the car park just below the canal and an interesting museum here. We are in the district of Saddleworth the original home of the Platt family. Makers of wool and cotton mill machinery. Saw a working Platt machine which was making stair carpet. A village with a good range of shops. Great value for cotton products like sheets and towels.
One female duck with ducklings struggles to keep them fed while fending off the randy males. We counted 20 male ducks here ! The situation is so bad that the RSPCA were called to rescue the young family. Apparently several females have disappeared.
Earlier in our travels we heard that the Trent and Mersey canal has been closed due to a breach near the Anderton Lift. This has caused an increase in boat traffic wanting to use the Huddersfield canal. It will also be our way back south. BW told us that the canal should reopen in June.
STANDEDGE
TUNNEL
Booked our trip through the Standedge tunnel but our cat & dog cannot go through so Ann will take a taxi. The day before we are booked to go through the tunnel we have to be at lock 24W. Here there is the first water tap, refuse and toilet facilities provided by British Waterways to be seen on this canal. The men in blue arrive to offer advice about our trip through the tunnel. Every thing has to come off the roof. Our front cratch cover, bike and box, flower pots and rear cover are all removed. Much of it is stowed in the front well. We filled the water tank and put a bag of coal up front to lower the bow as much as possible so it would be less likely to hit the tunnel roof.
The BW men returned the next day to help us up the flight of 9 locks to the summit at 645 feet. A rush of activity by the team of men tie the four boats together in a ‘train’. They used floating rubber ‘connectors’ and straps. Large rubber sheets are thrown over to cover and protect the roof and sides of the boat. Gas and electric turned off. Inside, the boat is in total darkness. The taxi arrives for Ann and the animals. Half an hour for a bite to eat before the convoy sets off. All the boat owners are to travel in the tug while a BW man is stationed on each boat to help guide it through. They have hard hats with torches and a pole.
ELECTRIC
TUG
The driver of the tug has to concentrate on not hitting the rock sides by moving at 1 mile an hour. There are 2 propellers, one at each end of the tug. Both under the control of the driver. Much of the tunnel is brick lined but the rest is just rough rock. Building started in 1794 digging and blasting their way through from both ends. It is no wonder there are a few bends in the middle! The tug almost stops as it knocks and bangs it’s way past the bend. I watched our boat which was the first in line. It never touched the side. The ‘train’ emerged after 3 hours, in Yorkshire.
Our
boat was returned to us undamaged but dirty. We were relieved. It was late afternoon
and we had no time to see the visitor centre before it closed. We were too busy
putting our boat back together. The next morning the BW men helped the 4 boats
down the 11 lock flight.
SLAITHWAITE
Going down with our own lock full of water. 10 locks and a mile away from Slaithwaite. Justoutside the town we see our first guillotine lock gate. It has to be wound up and the boat goes under it. The next bridge is lower and the boat only just gets under that ! Then there is the deep lock. It takes the canal below street level and you travel in a trough. You can just see the shops as you move down the street. The Fish & Chip shop is open and they wave as we pass. Down another lock to moor by the Fire Station. Must get some fish & chips ! BW have done a lot of work here to hide the canal from the street but have not provided any facilities for us boaters.
HUDDERSFIELD
Just south of Huddersfield there are old mills in the Colne valley. The old mill stream is full of stagnant water and weed. The canal may well have been like that before it was reopened. Another 14 locks in 3 miles gets us to Huddersfield. One pound was empty ! Vandals had opened a paddle the night before so BW men came to help again. Eventually get down past the University and on to the ‘wide’ canal and moor by Sainsburys.
In conclusion the canal has two main towns where you can stop to shop. Uppermill in the west and Slaithwaite in the east. One set of BW facilities provided at Dobcross is not enough. We’ll see how BW copes later this year when two water festivals are planned.
CALDER
& HEBBLE
Before going on down the Huddersfield Wide canal we got a Hand Spike for use on the Calder & Hebble. It is a 2 ft. long piece of 3X 2 wood used to wind up / down the paddles. Some locks have been converted to the normal windlass operation. We turned left onto the navigable river Calder heading for Sowerby Bridge. The locks are only 57ft. 6in. long. 6in. longer than the boat. Despite being a wide lock we usually went in on our own at an angle. Almost hit the front to close the gates behind. Going up or down needed our full attention to ensure the front or back does not get caught in the lock. Most locks had ground paddles but some kind boater opened the gate paddle first ! Our front well got flooded going up. Going down the back often got flooded due to a few leaky gates. The hand spike is a bit slow and hard to operate.
ROCHDALE
At
Sowerby Bridge we enter the deepest lock in the country at 19ft. 4 1/4in.
It marks the start of the Rochdale Canal. We pay the lock keeper for two
weeks navigation. BW will soon take over the running of this canal which
was restored by a Trust. 20 lock miles and we are in Hebden Bridge where
my brother used to live. Joined the horse trip boat in the lock before
town then moored by the ‘chimney’. Many new buildings and shops
have replaced the old mills. After a few days we moved on up past Oxford
Street where Brod used to live and on to Todmorden. The valley is very
narrow with river, road, canal and railway squeezing through. The river
has been in flood in recent years. It over flows into the canal and then
into Todmorden and Hebden Bridge. Old mills and new factories have restricted
the river which in places is narrower than the canal. The further up we
got the harder the lock gear became because the teeth were well worn.
Then we saw a sign warning us about lack of water at the summit. In fact
BW stopped boats proceeding somewhere past Tod. So we turned there.
Got
some coal on the way back. One bag left and the fire was still being lit on
some cold wet evenings. Had to borrow a wheel barrow to ‘deliver’
the bags myself ! Solid concrete tow path edges and no rings prevented us mooring
out of town. Which is a shame bcause many more boats could stop here. Hebden
Bridge is one of those towns we would come back to if only we could.
Back at Sowerby and the deep lock we tied up temporally to the fence. The ‘officious’ lock keeper came over and kindly told us we could be sued for obstructing the tow path. It was no time to joke about it being an offence to tie to the fence ! Cyclists had access to the tow path even at the mooring for the lock! What would happen if a cyclist knocked us into the canal ? We’d get wet that’s what !!
BACK
ON THE RIVER
The engine needs a service and the Barrus agent is at Ledgard Bridge. He could do it tomorrow. “Come on down and moor up over night” he said when we rang. So we did. On the river Calder next to the weir. All available ropes tied to shore. Our map showed the boat yard on the other side which would have been better. Luckily the water level went down over night but it was one of those bad nights. Never before seen a duck go by so fast !
So we continue on river navigations after the service. Going down the Calder to Castleford and up the Aire to Leeds. The Aire & Calder have huge locks operated by push buttons. During ‘Jubilee’ week the lock keepers were not on duty and we did not see any commercial traffic which would be transporting coal sand and petrol. In the 1700’s these navigable rivers were used to transport coal, wool, corn and agricultural produce from the Humber to Leeds. The wide rivers encouraged speed without making a wash so ‘plastic’ boats tend to pass us.
OLD MILL PRODUCTS
Stopped at Thwaite Mills just outside Leeds. Two working water wheels each generating 30 horse power. Originally used for ‘Fulling’. A process to bind freshly woven cloth using fullers earth and urine. A family business called “Filtrate Oils Ltd.” later converted the mill to grinding corn and oil seed but after a fire the mill was converted to stone crushing. China stone and Flint glaze for the local pottery industry. Chalk was crushed and filtered in water to produce ‘whiting’ which was used in white bread, paint, putty, tooth paste and pills.
LEEDS
Moved up into ‘Clarence Dock’ in Leeds through the last surprisingly short push button lock and on to the Leeds & Liverpool Canal. The longest canal in the country at 127 miles. The dock is in the process of being adapted to a marina. Plenty of water space but lacking in moorings. So few floating pontoons that we arranged to go along side another boat for the night.
A new building contains ‘The Royal Armouries’ once kept at the Tower of London. This we visited the next day and were treated to a ‘Jousting’ competition. Then a walk to try and find shops. The tow path was blocked due to development. Over a new foot bridge by the Tetley Brewery. We have seen a few of these by canals. Must be the water! Crossed many busy roads and passed cafe’s but found no shops. Some old streets were strewn with rubbish and broken glass bottles.
LEEDS
& LIVERPOOL
Then on up the L &L heading for Skipton. Almost the furthest north we can get on this canal. BW providing assistance at the many locks through Leeds.
Stopped at Bingley by the ‘Damart’ factory. The town of Bingley at the bottom of the locks can’t be seen for concrete walls! Up 3 locks before getting to the famed Bingley 5 Rise. Very tidy with a lock keeper in attendance. These locks raising the canal by 90 feet. At the top the view transformed into open country side. Many more boats about. Not yet seen a working boat since we were north of Birmingham. This ‘Brindley’ canal now follows the contours at about 240 ft. for about 16 miles to Gargrave. Rolling hills with dry stone walling of the North Yorkshire Dales reminding us of Dorset.
Our progress is slowed by 30 swing bridges between Leeds and Skipton. Each one having a different mode of operation. Some provide access to fields which you just push to open. Others carry traffic and have barriers and lights. Most are shut to the boater and locked. Some are automatic and some you wind open with a handle. The lock paddles on this canal were also different. Some opened sideways!
SKIPTON
Stayed at Skipton for shops, post and the vet. Allie’s cough is better having taken a course of antibiotics. Now fit enough for an op. to remove a tooth, clean teeth and get claws clipped. She was so floppy afterwards that we got a taxi back to the boat. Then Terry & Myra paid us a visit on their way back from the Lake District. Staying at the local ‘Travel Lodge’ for the night. Went to the pub for a meal to celebrate the fact that we were together again so far north. They plan to return to their boat and travel north to the Llangollen canal as we progress south.
After a week in Skipton where it rained a lot, we moved out to Gargrave on a sunny Sunday. No locks but four more swing bridges in as many miles. Would have stayed longer but another boater offered to travel up the next set of locks with us. It does help having two boats in these wide locks. They had booked a passage through the Standedge Tunnel but could not get up the Huddersfield Narrow canal for lack of water! So it seems we were luckier than most. Now up at 400 ft. on the summit and going over the Pennines when dry stone walling followed the canal in this remote location. We stayed a night seeing a glorious sunset. No roads or houses to be seen for miles.
BARNOLDSWICK
Continued to Barnoldswick and found good moorings near the Rolls Royce factory. Found a post office and stayed for our post to arrive. Time to construct a cupboard in the utility room. On a calm sunny evening several ducks are seen asleep drifting about in the breeze. Although the shops were 1/2 an hour walk away this small town is pretty, well equipped and worth coming back to. The boat yard had a clear pontoon where we got more diesel.
Moved
on out into open space and stopped as it was windy and raining. The next morning
looked and felt so different. The sun shine casting light and shade from a different
angle. A rough windy evening transformed to a calm quiet morning. Went through
Fouldridge tunnel into Lancashire and down the exposed locks at Barrowford.
A westerly wind with drizzle on the western side of the Pennines making for
an unpleasant trip. Our friend Mark has marked our map book with good moorings
and places to avoid as he had been this way before.
CITIES ?
Sadly it is the case that large towns and cities have ‘undesirables’ intent on destruction. So an early start ensures a safe journey of 19 miles through Burnley. Derelict old mills and the usual rubbish in the water to pass by. Had to stop once to clear the prop of plastic bags. Then Blackburn the next day. This place has turned it’s back on the canal. The back yards of industry face us. The boat lurched as it passed over a large object under water. At one point we did see an old metal bath under the surface which we missed! Stopped at the top lock having spotted ASDA through a gap in the wall by a bridge. Ann went off on her own while I stayed with the boat. Another boat is here and we both started off down the locks. Out of town was better. Well kept back gardens down to the canal edge. Then, further out of town, on the bank in the bushes a young Roe Deer was watching us go by. Oh deer what a treat to see. Drove for 5 hours that day so stayed a day and walked round a nature reserve north of Chorley.
JUBILEE & FOOTBALL
Two events this June to enjoy. What jolly flag waving there was to be seen in London during ‘Jubilee week’. The nation appreciates it’s Queen. She gave us two evenings of music in her back garden. One classic one pop. Fireworks and pictures on the palace. The other was the world football. While shopping in Bingley it was obvious when England scored a goal. Most pubs had a TV ! Many boats were decorated with flags though can’t be sure for which event. Ours had some flags as well.
CANAL BRIDGES
The original bridges over canals were for horse and cart. They are made of brick or stone. We have seen huge lorries go over them and wonder about their strength. These bridges are across the canal and usually provide a clear view for the boater. Cars tend to hoot as they go over the hump. Many new bridges are at an angle to the canal. For the boater the result is a blind bend and sharp corners while cars rush by unaware that they are crossing anything.
QUIET
TIMES
A local boater on the Leeds & Liverpool told us that the canal has never been so quiet. We had noticed the lack of moving boats. Apparently many owners cannot afford to conform to the latest safety requirements. Buying coal or diesel from a boat is unheard of. Coal was one of the main cargoes for Narrow boats. Near Wigan the locals used to trawl the canal for it. The boats were trimmed by shovelling the coal into the canal as they moved along.
The flight of locks at Wigan gets us down 215 ft. to about 60 ft. and a different landscape. Large lakes have formed where mining has caused subsidence. The canal is very deep with it’s sides built up using pit waste. It is quite barren with few trees, some bushes and no houses. Astley Green Pit Museum has one of the few pit head winding gear left. But not in working condition and little local interest in keeping it. Certainly the only one we have seen. English Heritage may offer money to paint it. The mine itself is flooded and some of the equipment at ground level is in need of looking after. The mine complex is now owned by a trust.
BRIDGEWATER
On to Worsley, from deep clear water to red ochre in colour and the start of the Bridgewater Canal. The Duke of Bridgewater owned the coal mines and decided to float the coal out in boats called ‘starvationers’. They were long and thin. The first canal in Britain took the coal to Manchester. A boat house here housed the Royal Barge used by Queen Victoria in 1851. One of the grey horses pulling the barge was frightened by the crowd and jumped into the canal ! A huge swing bridge at Barton takes the canal over the Manchester ship canal. We were able to stop to admire the engineering. The bridge with water in it’s trough rotates to allow huge ships to continue up the Ship Canal. A ‘wonder of the canals’. Then passed the industrial heart of Manchester. Kelloggs have been here for a long time. Stopped at safe moorings to shop at Sale.
Later
we stopped at Dunham Massey. A smart village, the occupants proud of their gardens.
Walked round the estate of Dunham Massey Hall where we saw herds of deer. So
tame that we stood within 10 ft. of a group of 20. With Allie but no camera
!
Lymm
is another pretty village. Shops and flower baskets. Water and seats to admire
the view. The canal cuts through one way and a river crosses the other. Lymm
Dam made a huge lake to walk round in a wooded landscape. A typical hump back
bridge raised the road over the canal hiding the cottages beside it.
Then on to Stockton Heath where a walk down the high street got us to the Manchester Ship Canal again. We walked across a huge swing bridge which carried wheeled traffic. It would have been good to see a ship moving on the canal but it was not to be. Got food at Morrisons before returning to the boat. There is a village called MOORE ! It’s Post Office is right by the canal.
TRENT & MERSEY
On now to the Trent and Mersey at Preston Brook. It starts with a tunnel and ends at Shardlow lock 93 miles away. We were there last August. Through the tunnel at 1/2 past the hour as it is one way only. Boaters coming the other way go through on the hour. The next two tunnels are shorter and not timed but you cannot see the other end due to a bend in the middle. We had just entered with our light on when we heard a hooter and backed out. Not easy in the dark. So we sounded our hooter on the way through.
The breach which had closed the canal earlier in the year is now fixed so we can get to the Anderton lift. This huge machine, now restored, raises up to four boats at a time 50 feet from the river Weaver to the canal. Another wonder and known as the cathedral of the canals. Salt was the main cargo as we are near Northwich and Middlewich. Took a boat trip up the lift on the ‘Edwin Clark’ named after the designer.
We visited the Lion Salt Works at Marston, now a museum run by a trust. Rock salt was laid down 200 million years ago and lies about 200 ft. below ground. Water runs over the deposit and is pumped out as brine. The brine is heated to produce the natural salt. Narrow boats were used to deliver coal and take away salt.
Now at Middlewich. We have done a big circle over the Pennines in both directions. How we miss the hills n valleys, the dry stone walls and old mills. Got post, pills and pictures. Stocked up at Somerfields.
THE SHROPSHIRE UNION
Turned off the Trent & Mersey on to the ‘Shroppie’. Arranged to meet Terry & Myra at Church Minshull. They are on their boat up from the Llangollen canal and we travel together again. Decided to head for Chester. Stopped at Beeston Castle. Walked up 500 ft. to the castle. A Royalist stronghold but defeated and destroyed by Parliamentarians. Grand views of the country. Liverpool, Pennines, Chester and Welsh mountains can be seen. Had a meal on board ‘Butty Lark’ and a game of mah-jongg. We continue on to Chester while Terry & Myra return home.
CHESTER
It turned into a long hot day as we travelled on and on into Chester and stopped by the city wall. Next day we walked round on top of the wall. Took about an hour. Mostly about 10 ft. above ground with bridges over roads and rail. Saw the river Dee, racecourse, cathedral, shops, clock tower, roman gardens and King Charles’ tower. He watched the defeat of his forces from there.
On some more to the end of the canal at Ellesmere Port. Saw Liverpool across the other side of the Mersey, and the start of the Manchester Ship Canal. Paid a visit to the Boat Museum. Mainly old canal boats.
BUSY TIMES
August is a busy month. Lots of boats out and about. Useful at locks because a boat usually comes out as we go in. Most offer help. We were following a boat which gave way to another at a bridge. He went into the side and got stuck in the mud. Typical on the Shropshire Union. You can only get a good mooring at Visitor Moorings. We assisted by pulling the boat off backwards. The skipper was encouraged to help by using his engine as well ! While this was going on several boats passed by.
As we followed they went under a low hanging tree. A couple of bikes on the roof nearly got dragged off. A crew member managed to prevent them from falling into the water. She kept going back and forth along the side of the boat. Then fell in. The life buoy got thrown in and the engine stopped. The crew got back in and we picked up the buoy which had drifted away. On returning the buoy the skipper could not get the engine started. He had left the stop button up ! Some times it all happens at once. Their children were getting bored on the trip at first but now are enjoying the excitement.
MARKET DRAYTON
We got to Market Drayton and my brother paid us a visit on his way back from Scotland. He had actually seen a new wonder of the canals. The Falkirk Wheel. The worlds first rotating boat lift. Had some quality time while we had a meal on board. It was a damp day with some thunder and Brod went back to Winchester through ‘horrendous wet’. It had been dry for a few days earlier and we got some ‘blacking’ done on at least one lower side of the boat. The tow path providing easy access.
Above the 5 Tyrley locks the canal passes a long narrow section where trees and rocks make it difficult to pass. We were told of a low hanging tree which was scraping paint work. Decided to get our branch lopper out and did some pruning. The cut off branches were thrown as best we could on to the tow path. Just to prove that you cannot please everybody a passenger on the boat behind complained about the branches which had fallen into the water. “Better than scratched paint” I shouted. Contractors not far away were in fact cutting many trees down to clear the way.
What a silly time to get by Fradley Junction, Saturday Morning. Took all morning to get down 3 locks. 4 boats going down and only one going up. There is a hire fleet operating at the busy junction with three abreast on ‘turn round’ day. Space enough for us to get slowly through and turn on to the Coventry Canal.
PROBLEM AT A LOCK
While at Atherstone one morning we noticed several boats in the queue for the locks. Soon there were at least ten all hanging on the side of moored boats. We assisted by hanging on to ropes as they progressed along. One boater coming up reported that a gate had got damaged earlier. By lunch time they had gone. It was sunny and dry so we got on with ‘blacking’ the other side of our boat. The old hat factory has suffered broken windows since we were here last. There are plans to convert them into luxury flats. But still waiting for an access road. It is built of brick with concrete pillars which are damaged. It has been known that buyers of property next to canals have complained about boats moored nearby.
A HAPPY EVENT
Left the boat at ‘Springwood Haven’ marina and hired a brand new car to get us all down south. Like going on holiday with cat and dog. Much to organise, planning visits to family, friends, Doctors, Agents and of course to see our first Grandchild.
Travelled to Winchester and the very next day JOSHUA arrived in Southampton’s Princess Ann’s Hospital. He was born on Saturday 21st. September. Got to see him when he was only 12 hours old. Tracy & Chris were tired but happy that Josh had at last arrived safely. We spent the two weeks with Mum and George & Ann’s. We were able to walk to see Joshua and his parents several times when they were at home. Also did some gardening etc. for mum. Much achieved in the two weeks. Even got to inspect the bungalow with our agent and get things down from the attic for Joshua.
Our trip in the car reminded us how hectic the traffic is. Many lorries intimidating us as we tried to get into the right lane. And noisy with it. Glad to arrive back at the boat early afternoon with time to unpack and return the car the same day. Took a while to settle in. The animals especially after all the travelling about, as they could not be told what would happen next. Next day we had time to visit John on ‘At Last’ who had looked after the flowers on our roof while we were gone.
SMALL REFIT
We had made a major decision to replace our fire. It was next to the food cupboard which got hot and the chimney had two sharp bends in it which made it difficult to brush out and clean. The new fire is to go between the two windows in the saloon. On our way back to Braunston we managed to get a boat yard to supply a steel sheet for the base. Then moored up outside the chandlery which supplied the fire, flue and assorted bits.
With all the equipment on board we met Mark & Margaret on Knott Normal at Norton Junction. They had got the concrete slabs, wood and fire board to make the fire place for us. A hole was cut in the roof and a new collar fitted. The old fire was removed. A notice ‘Fire for Sale’ in the window effectively got rid of it the next day. The stove pipe needed two bends cut and welded before we could use it. So we were relying on our diesel boiler and radiators just when Autumn switched on with a vengeance.
Back in Braunston we appealed to a busy boat builders better nature and got him to modify our stove pipe. When it was done we fitted it and sealed the joints just in time before it rained. Got inside and lit the new fire. ‘Grate’. Warm and cosy again. The condensation on the windows disappeared rapidly. The fire place is to be finished off later.
CROPREDY
In the meantime we decided to meet Terry & Myra who were on their boat at Cropredy on the South Oxford canal. While getting coal & diesel from Ivor Batchelor, John & Jean came by and wanted to hear about our summer trip. So they followed us down. There is a good shop at Cropredy and we all stayed a few days. Actually found a Chiropractor in the village and Ann booked a session later that day. Her back had been keeping her awake for some time. John showed me his computer hooked up to his mobile phone and demonstrated getting ‘on line’ to the internet. It sounded cheap and easy. Next day we got the bus into Banbury with Terry & Myra. We went to several mobile phone shops but found that they are not as cheap as they were and ‘Freeserve’ is not free! So we won’t be ‘on line’ yet. Especially as we are spending a small fortune on the ‘refit’.
DOG RESCUE
Back to Napton. It was my fault. The dog jumped off the boat the night before the storm. She disappeared. I had not put her lead on. Get the torch. Cant see her on the towpath. It was windy, we did not hear the splash. Ann spotted Allie in the reeds scrabbling up the opposite bank. How to get her back? It was 10 O’clock and dark. Start the engine, let go the stern rope and get over to the other side with the boat across the narrow canal. On to a muddy reed bed. Allie is wandering about. She does not hear us shouting. People appear on the towpath with powerful torches. I have wellie boots on and manage to get the plank on to the reed bed and get off somehow. Many torches light up the field and Allie comes to me. Get the lead on and Ann pulled her up the plank. I crawl up the sloping plank on my own!
Secured the boat back to the mooring with several ropes and tie down the front cover ready for the storm. It came the next day. Many other boats gathered here down from the exposed top lock. Several boaters were actually attempting to move during the storm. Getting blown close to the moored boats and forcing owners to fend off in the rain. The next day we all moved to Braunston. Some trees had dropped large branches into the canal but not so big to stop us getting through. The BW Office in Braunston had a damaged roof. And British Rail sent out 3 men with one broom to brush leaves off the lines.
THE NEW FIRE
We are getting to know the new fire. Man made smokeless fuel is very hot, so we mix it with Anthracite which is cooler and produces less ash. We met Mark & Margaret back at Rugby. A wood yard there has the American White Oak which has been used previously in the fit out and we collected it ourselves. All cut to size to finish off the fireplace. By the end of the week we also had a tailor made unit for the computer and all its bits, a drawer for cutlery, a cupboard for crockery and a bookshelf. Quite an upheaval with carpet rolled up and our chairs dismantled to make room to work.
Much time is spent rubbing down the woodwork and varnishing. Books and CD’s put in the bookshelf, computer equipment put away and crockery unpacked and in the cupboard. So much better, we don’t know ourselves.
HELP EACH OTHER
During this time Dave on Grange asked for help with some plumbing. I volunteered with some success. When Mark had finished and left, we reversed under a bridge to get water. An underwater obstruction managed to lift up and dislodge our rudder. It went all stiff so we could not steer! Ann jumped off at the bridge with a rope and pulled the boat over so I could get off as well. We both pulled it back to the water point. Got the tank filled up then tried to lift the rudder back up into position. It was too heavy. Decided to ask Dave for help. After finishing his cup of tea he came with some rope. With the rudder lined up under a handy footbridge Dave tied the rope to the bridge. He was a lorry driver and used a special knot which effectively made a block and tackle. Pulling down on the rope lifted the rudder up and after several attempts we managed to relocate it. Much to my relief. Always help others, for you never know when you may need help yourself. It is believed that the obstruction is a shopping trolley. Tesco is not far away! If British Waterways pull them out, the owner has to pay for their return.
CLIFTON
The start of December finds us at Clifton on the North Oxford Canal. From here we could walk in to Rugby taking 20 minutes. On the way we posted our Christmas cards. Rugby is good for Christmas shopping. That done we moved on to Braunston to collect our post. Checked with British Waterways that a lock on the South Oxford Canal was open as it had been closed for two weeks for brickwork repair. We said good by to our friends on Willow Dreamer as they are going up to the Coventry Canal, leaving their boat in a marina and catching sunshine in Spain.
FAMILY VISIT
We wanted to go down to Cropredy to meet ‘Family’ and got there in 3 days. 22 miles and 18 locks. The canal has many bends in it and at times you don’t seem to make much progress. The windmill on Napton hill is visible for miles. It was quite cold and some ice had formed. On the way a BW notice informed us about a lock investigation which had closed it. Not on our list of closures. Luckily it was open by the time we got there. The water is leaking into nearby property. They used bright green dye to find the leak. The dye gradually moved down to Cropredy through three locks. The canal had returned to it’s usual muddy brown by the time our visitors arrived.
Christmas came early for us. Our boat was decorated with fairy lights and a small tree. We had got a couple of cards by then. Chris, Tracy, Josh and Mum came with cards, post and presents. Cropredy is just past Banbury off the motorway and it only took them about 2 hours from Eling. It was good to see and play with Josh again. Obviously growing up and enjoyed seeing the boats through the window. We all enjoyed the day. It had rained hard the night before and the River Cherwell had flooded over the road. Luckily another way through the village got them home.
CHRISTMAS
We returned to near Braunston in 2 days. One wet, one dry. Meeting up
with Bramble and seeing George and Magie on Christmas Eve. We spent a
few days there. Nice for us all to have the company over Christmas on
our boats.
Thank you for reading Chapter 7. Now you can read Chapter 8 or return to Book.