Chapter 6: Leicester Ring, 2001
UNPLANNED
DEPARTURE
We left the boat at Braunston after Christmas. Chris and Tracy came up and helped drain the water out of the tank and pipes. It was snowing at the time and ice was forming on the canal. An unplanned departure due to the fact that my father was in hospital and unlikely to survive. Luckily Braunston is quiet and secure. We had informed BW at their local office. Val on Water Avens was kind enough to keep an eye on MTL as she had a winter mooring nearby. We had managed to return a couple of times to reassure ourselves that the boat was OK.
Dad died in January. Apart from helping mum sort out her affairs and getting used to her new status in life we had problems of our own. The manager of our letting agent left. At the same time our tenants gave a months notice to leave. However a phone call from the office reassured us that the agency will continue to look after us and has already found another tenant.
We returned to the boat in February, a week after the funeral. Chris and Tracy got us back the second weekend in February. We lit the fire first, shut the animals in and got lunch at the local pub. Then filled the tank with water and turned the pump on. Running water again and no leaks! Thanks to Chris who put the pipes back together.
STOCKING UP
The Anthracite did not stay alight in our fire and we got quite cold. The boat was also a bit damp after being cold for a month! We got our usual Pure Heat coal and diesel from Ivor Bachelor on the local working boat Mountbatten at Braunston. Then on round to the marina to pump out our loo tank. The fire is much hotter now. There are many makes of fire and you find the right fuel for it by trial and error.
Need to stock up with food at Tesco up the north Oxford Canal at Rugby. Got as far as Barby Hill the first day. Only two hours into the middle of nowhere. The M45 crosses nearby and we can hear the traffic noise. Despite this we stayed a couple of days cleaning the boat inside and out and writing a few letters. While the fire is hot enough we try to cook the odd stew which slowly cooks all day.
FIRST ENGINE SERVICE
The engine has nearly done 250 hours and is due for an oil change. Ann got a stew cooking on the stove as we made our way to Hillmorton Boat Services. Saw Barry Pemperton to arrange the engine service. "Come back next week and we'll do it" he said. We wanted a Post Office to post our letters. Barry told us where to find the nearest one in a shop by a pub. A 20 minute walk up the hill eventually found it. (The pub's not worth noting). Terry and Myra paid us a visit the next day using their car and driving 10 miles from their boat. They were surprised how rural the canal was so close to Rugby. We continued on down three locks, the only ones on the North Oxford, and filled our water tank. The narrow locks here are unusual in that they come in pairs. As one boat goes down in one another can come up in the other. Having got to Brownsover and done our shopping we turned to return. But not before reading on an information board that Frank Whittle invented the jet engine here. Once back at Hillmorton we stayed for two nights and the engine and gearbox got the oil changed by Paul. The old buildings here used to house the steam pumps which pumped canal water back up to the top lock thus saving water. The job being done by electricity now.
Got some more coal from John Chard on Stokie, another working boat. John has been in the local news about his Web site. I noticed a tiny aerial and wondered what it was for. With that John invited me on board. His engine is in the galley! The sink is next to the engine. Or is the galley in the engine room? Part of the cargo hold has been converted into a computer room. He has a full size powerful computer complete with scanner, printer, digital camera and mobile phone all connected using BT Internet and Orange Every day account. The software cost more than the Nokia phone. John was very keen to show me the new Web Site he was designing, and many pictures he had taken. I almost forgot where I was and got out just as Ann came looking for me.
Mark and Margaret on Knot Normal have returned from their holiday in Spain. We met them back at Brownsover and they invited us on board after our cold trip through a snow storm. Mark said that "a bad day on your boat is still better than a good day at work." He then spent an industrious three days making a cabin door and various panels for our boat while we painted and varnished. The new door makes it much warmer in the cabin. The temperature is now 10 F lower the other side of the door!
FOOT AND MOUTH
On our return from Rugby we came crunching through ice on the canal in March. Got water at Hillmorton then up through the lock. John Chard on Stokie told us that the canal tow paths have been closed by British Waterways. We were already aware of the Foot & Mouth out breaks but had not realised the implications. The 'Navigation' could even be closed soon. So we have been advised to make our way back to Braunston with out delay.
Got to Braunston through more ice and jumped into the first available space. Had been away for a week so went to collect our post and post the previous news letter. All the Foot Paths are closed so we have to walk the long way round by road. This done we returned to the boat and proceeded to walk down the tow path to see how many boats were here. Met Mark & Margaret on Not Normal. They have permission to work on boats outside the marina. He has gathered about 6 boats to work on and suggested that we move to join them. On our way we got more coal from Ivor. The TV is OK but the phone is useless. We have to go up to the bridge to pick up messages.
CONFUSION
Ice forms during the evening in early March this year and remains till mid morning. It is a strange site seeing all the ducks standing round in groups on the ice. Many hired boats are still moving about breaking the ice as they have to be returned during the weekend. The 'Navigation' has now been officially closed. Some people had only just got away on their holiday. During the weekend many walkers were seen still using the Foot Paths. Even the one up the hill to the village which goes through a field of sheep! One road down to the locks has a restriction sign at one end only which causes confusion. Cars and lorries still use it! Two weeks later a straw mat was put down at each end.
WORKING ON BOATS
Many boat owners have started working on their boats. Painting outside when it is dry and improving inside when wet. Mark is helping us with the woodwork while I have put up a few more shelves and put down some flooring. We have been advised to get our boat Blacked. That is painted with pitch below the waterline. Now is a good time because some boaters have cancelled due to not being able move their boats and the yards are looking for work and our boat, being new, will only have one or two coats. I went down to Braunston Boat Haven's yard to have a look at a boat being painted and was due to go back in the water the next day.
BLACKING
We got booked in two days later. Just time to fill with water and pump out the loo tank because we would be there for three days.We arrived at 8 o'clock on a cool misty morning only 10 minutes from our mooring. Lined the boat up with the double trolley and were told to jump off the boat. The tractor pulled the boat up out of the water and it looked strange high up on the trolley. We were provided with a landing stage to get on and off. Allie was OK but the cat was eventually found under the bed clothes! The sides were pressure washed. This revealed many bare patches of steel. By the end of the afternoon it had started to rain and the boat was pulled into the shed to dry off. We got two coats of paint each left to dry over night. It had been strange living on board a boat which does not move. We cannot let water out of the sink. All waste water had to be carried away. TV reception was poor and we could not light the fire while in the shed so used the boiler to keep warm. Got plugged into the mains power to keep the batteries charged because we could not run the engine while out of the water. Eventually we were pushed back in to the water and I was pleased that the engine started when the boat floated off.
BIRDS
Back at our mooring we, and the cat, observed several Gold Finches pecking the ground outside the galley window. They are very colourful. Mark and Margaret came round to discuss our requirements. Mark needs to order more wood for other boats as well. We have asked Mark to make two boxes to keep the bikes on the roof. They are taking up too much room in the front at the moment and it would be nice to sit out there when it is sunny. Mark has now delivered the two boxes and a table. Got my work cut out painting and varnishing.
Mel and Ivor on Mountbatten are delivering coal and diesel by moving up and down the canal during the Foot and Mouth restrictions. We got filled up early one Saturday morning. Later Chris and Tracy bought mum up to see us on the boat and after a coffee we went up to The Mill House for lunch. It was a dull day and we were still not allowed to move the boat. Despite this it was good to see the family again and catch up with family news.
MOVEMENT WITH CONDITIONS
British Waterways later decided to re open navigation. With conditions. All boats must follow disinfectant procedures. We have a washing up bowl with a sponge mat in it. We have been given 10 free sterile tablets. One to be dissolved in a litre of water. This is for stepping into when getting on or off the boat. Some locks may be manned by BW so you don't get off. Much of the canal pass through farm land and we are not permitted to moor there. Many boats have already moved and some hire boats have been seen out and about. Some BW facilities now have disinfectant trays to walk through. We are very much looking forward to moving off soon. Mary & Ray came up and stayed in their campervan in the marina and Terry & Myra came over by car from their boat at Ventnor Farm and we all went to the pub for Sunday lunch.
The Navigation is open, but we have to finish painting those boxes! Sunshine in the morning and rain in the afternoon. Oh those 'April Showers'! Must get the jobs done before we can go. Got the boxes on the roof with bikes in them with temporary covers tied on with rope. Got an aerial for our mobile phone from the chap in the caravan in the marina. The aerial sits on the roof and makes the signal much stronger. Got some more coal from Ivor and Mell when they came by on their boat. Went to the shops and collected the post.
FISHING
A dingy came by electrocuting the fishes in the canal. "That's cheating" I said. But they are only pulling out unwanted (zenda?) fish, the others recover from the shock. George from Bramble gutted them and we ate one for tea. Tara the cat got some as well. Many of our friends are moving away now and Braunston is looking empty. We're on the move at last! The BW man came by the weekend and suggested we leave on Monday. Went to Calcutt to meet Terry and Myra, in sunshine, which helps. Stayed a couple of nights near the top lock. While we waited, Raymond went by being towed to Braunston. Raymond is an old butty being restored to it's former glory. A 'butty'is a working narrow boat normally towed by another boat, with an engine, called a motor. Raymond was the last working boat to be built at Braunston. Due to the restrictions we could not walk round the reservoir so we carried out some modifications inside. Then our friends arrived on Butty Lark and we returned to Braunston.
PUB LUNCH
We all had lunch at The Plow where we made some plans about where to go. Then picked up yet more post and some photographs. Met Val from Water Avens and said good by as she is leaving. That evening we played our favourite game of Mah-jongg. Next day we both moved up the Oxford canal to the locks at Hillmorton. A morning run. On the way we passed some sections of canal where we could not stop. The locks were cordoned off and we were not allowed through as pedestrians. After lunch we walked round to find the shops by road at the bridge. Despite the restrictions some people are still walking and cycling with their dogs on the tow path. There are signs and tape at the bridges which are being ignored. Lots of hire boats out for the Easter week.
EASTER
It's Good Friday and we have our hot cross buns. On Saturday we watched the F1 practice on TV. On Sunday we had boiled eggs with painted faces. Then we moved down through the locks and on to Clifton near Rugby. Got water at the boatyard and a map to cover the canals we intend to travel on. Terry got a pumpout and some diesel for his boat. Went on to Brownsover where we could go to Tesco and more out of town shopping. Good moorings here both sides of the canal and clear of restrictions. Halfords had some trailer covers which were just right for our boxes on the roof. After one night we moved on again. Another short hop to Newbold just north of Rugby. A small village with shop, Post Office, butcher, hairdresser a pub and water tap by the canal. Collected some post from the Post Office.
We know what is ahead here but our travelling companions do not. So they hop on their bikes and ride on ahead while Ann cooks some nice rock cakes and I printed some info for Terry and looked up some pictures of the canals we plan to go on. We have decided to head for Coventry. We tend to travel about 3 hours, stop some where and explore. We stopped at All Oaks Wood for a couple of nights. Lots of birds seen here. Some body had nailed a bird seed tray on one of the trees. Actually saw a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, some Thrushes, Tree Creepers and Squirrels. From now on we are all on a voyage of discovery.
COVENTRY CANAL
Navigation note:- Coventry to Fradley Junction, 32 miles and 13 locks.
The Oxford Canal ends at Hawkesbury Junction where it joins the Coventry Canal. We are able to stay here. Had lunch in the Greyhound. The canal into Coventry is clear of restrictions. An art trail is very inviting and we know that much work has been carried out to improve the canal which ends at the basin in the middle of Coventry. So we turned left on to the Coventry. Another narrow canal. It is 5 1/2 miles to Coventry. At first it was pretty but then we saw diggers and bulldozers clearing a derelict site of rubble. Then we saw so much floating rubbish in the water we slowed to a crawl. Then a new out of town shopping centre but we did not stop. Then under several low pipe bridges until we reached Bridge No. 1 which was so low we only just got under it. There before us was the new basin where several other narrow boats were moored. Well worth the trip, very secure and within sight of the Cathedral.
We are allowed to stay two nights. There is an office where we report our arrival and get a visitors pack of information. Then went sight seeing. Saw the cathedral and Lady Godiva. Nice horse! Then to the free car museum. Coventry is famed for building cars. Did some shopping in Sainsbury's before leaving. On our way out we picked up two plastic toy cars which were floating amongst the large lumps of wood. We threw them in the skip at Hawkesbury. Terry & Myra fished out a practically new baby buggy which they cleaned up for their grandson when they go back home.
The canal is level for many miles and passes Bedworth and Nuneaton. Stopped at Nuneaton to purchase supplies. It is a large town with a good shopping centre some way from the canal. Post Offices on the way to the centre were boarded up and appeared closed. We arrived on Saturday and heard the cheers from the football stadium as goals were scored.
NEW MARINA
So after visiting Coventry we moved up north on the Coventry Canal continuing in our 'discovery' mode. In other words got no idea what it is really like round the next corner or through the next bridge. As we go we make notes about the towpath edges. Many have steel edges and usually indicate good moorings while other edges are rocky or concrete which are to be avoided. Soft edges are worth trying but either you can't get close and need a plank or you get close and find the bottom rubbing or you run aground. Another boat near by is not a reliable indicator. Good places to stop and village facilities have been noted in our map books. Found a new boat marina out of town and picked up diesel and water. Had the loo tank pumped out as well. They operate Valley Cruisers hire boats and have long term moorings at which we could leave the boat in July. Hope to hire a car.
BOOKS
AND MAPS
Navigation note:- Trent & Mersey, Fradley Jn. to Gt. Haywood, 11 miles, 5 locks.
Staffordshire & Worcestershire, Gt. Haywood to Wolverhampton, 19 miles, 12 locks.
We have a set of canal maps which show where British Waterways provide water, refuse and loo facilities. Also have a set of booklets collated by a boater. These show where to find Post Offices, shops, surgeries etc. all within walking distance from a bridge over the canal. The only problem is that they were researched several years ago and sometimes the Post Office store no longer exists. We are filling in missing info. like addresses and phone numbers. We have had to ring one to ask them to forward our mail to another which was done willingly at no extra cost.
TRENT AND MERSEY
The Trent & Mersey canal follows the contours and usually passes behind the towns and villages. We have passed by many well kept back gardens which are a joy to see. Then at Armitage the canal was very narrow as it was originally a tunnel. Tall brick buildings with dirty windows lined the canal. Then we saw a yard full of toilets, baths and basins. Yes, this the famous Armitage Shanks pottery works. James Brindley and Josia Wedgwood had the canal built to transport crockery. You can imagine how much smoother the water transport was compared with the old roads and pack horses. So many breakages! The canal goes through Stoke on Trent and Burton on Trent and was also used to transport beer.
SHROPSHIRE
UNION
Navigation note:- Wolverhampton to Market Drayton, 27 miles, 7 locks.
The 'Shroppie' canal is quite different to others as it is straight and was surveyed by Thomas Telford. It does not follow the contours of the land like the Oxford canal does. There are deep cuttings through rock and long embankments. The Shellmore embankment caused a delay to the opening due to slippage. It is now lined with concrete. A few short tunnels have been opened to the sky due to problems with subsidence. The cuttings are very narrow with passing points. Many trees are clinging to the rocky sides. Some cuttingare wider with many trees growing on the slopes. Recent rain has caused mud slides and some trees and bushes have slipped down into the water. Despite this we managed to get through. BW have their work cut out keeping the canal clear. I marvelled at the work which had created this canal by hand hundreds of years ago.
We got as far north as Market Drayton which is half way between Birmingham and Liverpool. We visited many towns and villages on the way such as Nuneaton, Polesworth, Rugeley, Penkridge, Brewood and Gnosall. You have to be careful how you pronounce these names. Brewood is 'Brood', originally meaning wood on a hill. Market Drayton is famed for Ginger Bread and very nice it is too.
TURN SOUTH
We let our fire go out a few times during the day and finally we stopped re lighting it. We used the diesel boiler a few times when it was cold in the mornings. Now it is used for hot water when we have not run the engine. There is always a list of jobs to do. Shelves inside and outside cupboards. The computer is now installed inside the cabinet having removed the heavy drop down table and rearranged the shelves.
Some friends we made at Braunston have been seen elsewhere. George & Magie on Bramble at Market Drayton, Ian & Margery on Water Mouse at Gailey and Dave & Georgina on Willow Dreamer at Gnosal. Also Ivor Batchellor & Mel with their boat and butty selling coal and diesel were going north at Acton Trussel. We are travelling in the same direction as Terry & Myra who are either in front or behind. Sometimes we want to do our own thing and arrange to meet up again some way ahead. An old railway crosses the canal near Gnosall and we all walked along it with Allie our dog. The thought occurred to me that here is an unused railway which is younger than the canal.
Weekends tend to be busy with lots of boats out and about. We were about to set off after breakfast down the locks at Great Haywood and found five boats in front. We joined the queue. One boat at a time going through, the crew of each working the lock for themselves. One fellow behind us went to help. He told us that years ago crews from other boats helped each other. One problem is that some people open the paddles too quickly causing the boat to lurch about with the water rushing in too fast.
ALL CLEAR
The Foot & Mouth situation has improved on the canals. Now there are no restrictions as to where we can moor. We still have to use the disinfectant procedures when we get on and off the boat as do the public when they walk on the tow path. All dogs should be on leads! Many of the shops and stores had suffered a drop in sales due to less boat traffic which is recovering now. The locals tend to go to town in their cars rather than shop in their own villages.
EXPLORING
Having turned round at Market Drayton during May we are now exploring rather than discovering. A chance to move to our favourite spots and stay longer on the way back. At the start of June we were on the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal at Gailey where an engineer carried out the 500 hour service on the engine. Ian & Margery on Watermouse were nearby so we collected the knitted 'Postman Pat' which Myra had ordered. We were on our way again after a few hours continuing to Penkridge. Constable had a house here. It is market day so we walk in to shop. Many shops are quite distinctive with whitewashed walls and woodwork painted black.
WIND AND WATER
Back on board we continued to Haywood Junction where the canal meets the Trent and Mersey. It was a bit windy and we managed to pull in to the side at the boat yard for water. Having tied up we were told that the British Waterways tap was round the corner. But under the circumstances we were allowed to take their water. Next day we proceeded down the locks on the Trent & Mersey to Rugeley. This is a largish town all within walking distance of the canal so we stayed several days here. Cars were kept away from the centre which had a number of well known shops. We were kept occupied doing the accounts, newsletters and putting up shelves. Boots did my photos in an hour and we collected some post. On our way up we had passed through Fradley Junction with its famous Swan pub. This is where the Coventry canal joins the Trent & Mersey and once was a long established canal centre concerned solely with the life and trade of the canals. We stopped at the top lock and walked down to the pub for a meal. Next day we turned right to join the Coventry again.
DEMOCRACY
The General Election took place at this time but all we could do was watch and listen. We had no vote because we were not registered at a recognised address. We have always done our bit and voted in the past. It was disappointing to see that many people failed to use their democratic right to vote for the government of their choice. So look out the Euro is coming. It is worth 61 pence and the Queens head wont be on that currency.
POST
In the space of a couple of days and about 8 hours travelling we passed through Whittington, Hopwas and Tamworth with its well kept back gardens and arrived at Polesworth. A village with all you need rather than want. We walked to the Post Office for our letters which Chris had sent earlier. Not often do I get a paper. The election results were of interest this time. Most of the news paper gets used for cleaning paint brushes !
We had moored up by the sports field and on Sunday we walked round while the kids were playing football in a major tournament. The younger ones had a small pitch to play on. The River Anker passes between the canal and the town. Several foot bridges get you over into town so you dont get your feet wet ! Some paths were littered with rubbish which spoilt the view.
WILD LIFE
We often see ducks with their chicks, mum all proud and protective. Some times we see the unusual. A group of about five Herons in the field next to the canal. They were stood in a circle as if holding a meeting. Mr. & Mrs. Swan paid us a visit with their family. They often came knocking on the boat asking for their tea. Once we saw an Otter in the canal but it may have been a Mink. One of those unwanted animals like the grey squirrel.
ATHERSTONE
The canal has many bends and follows the contour of the land without many locks. Occasionally several locks bring it up to another level. Eleven locks over about a mile gets up to Atherstone. Setting off in the morning we arrived at the top and had a late lunch. Then went shopping. There are old empty factories where they used to make hats. The town has many shops and cafe's within walking distance of the canal. The CO-OP is more popular than Tesco up here. Should we get a divi ? Got a card once but then found that it only works locally. The next day we walked half way down the locks to help Terry and Myra bring their boat up. Several other boats were on their way up as well. Then we all continued on to Hearts Hill. A pub called The Malt and Shovel provided a cheerful atmosphere and very good food at reasonable cost. The pub was at the top of the hill which proved worth climbing up the hill for. Also good for the heart and circulation, made our fingers tingle.
ASHBY CANAL
Navigation note:- 22 miles and no locks.
An invitation to a birthday party requires us to find a marina for the boat and a car to get us to the south coast. The marina and car hire we found are both near Nuneaton. We were very lucky to find them so close together. When we called in to the marina they told us that the hire firm was just off at the next bridge. While we were sorting out the bookings for the car Terry & Myra had gone on up the Ashby canal. We followed in discovery mode as we had not been up there before. Go past Nuneaton and turn left. The Ashby Canal is 22 miles to the end with no locks as it follows the 300 foot contour. There are plans to restore the total length back to 30 miles but it never got to Ashby. Another 8 miles at the end have been lost to mining subsidence. It proved to be very shallow and we could only go 2 miles an hour. If you try and go faster the prop just sucks water from under the boat and it runs aground. There are two places to stock up. Stoke Golding and Market Bosworth.
BATTLE FIELD
A famous battle occurred in the field near Bosworth which ended the war of the roses. King Richard the third was killed and King Henry the seventh was crowned. It was the last time in England that such a battle was fought and was the start of the Tudor Dynasty. End of history lesson.
Terry & Myra had turned round at Market Bosworth so we invited them on board with their bikes and took them the three hour journey to the end. We said good by at the end as they rode back to Bosworth. They needed to get home before us. On our return we stopped at Stoke Golding where we stayed to visit the local school fete. Well attended with a marching band.
GO HOME TO A BIRTHDAY PARTY
Eventually we were back on the Coventry canal, got to the marina, walked to the garage, got the car, packed and drove back south. A fast and noisy 3 hour trip on the roads. Having gone to the party and seen family we returned. Another 3 hour trip on the road got us all back on the boat with cat and dog. Unpacked, returned the car and walked back to the boat. Checked the batteries. They held the charge for 8 days, and so they should. The gas ran out the day we left so got another bottle. The last one lasted 3 months.
PLANS FOR VISITORS
Spent some time looking for B & B's. Hoping that Brod will bring Mum up to see us on the boat in August at Atherstone which has more to offer. The Coventry canal is worth a look at between there and Nuneaton with well kept gardens for mum to see. The weather forecast predicted rain and wind in the midlands so we moved off in search of shelter. Reminded us of the October storms last year.
DUCK WEED
Navigation note:- Braunston to Crick, 9 miles, 13 locks.
We decided to move south to Braunston again in the hope that we get some visitors. The North Oxford canal is still full of Duck Weed like a green carpet on the water. Spent a few weeks down there before returning to the marina. Nobody came so we went up the locks at Braunston and through the tunnel on the Grand Union Canal. The locks are twice the width of our boat so we went up with another. Then we turned left at Norton Junction to get on the Leicester section. It is the first time here so we are in discovery mode. Many trees provide cool shade now that the summer is warming up. Then we get to the Watford Locks which are near the Watford Gap service station on the M1 motorway. Having got up the locks there is another tunnel before getting to Crick.
TUNNELS
The tunnel at Braunston has bends in it caused by a mistake in direction when digging. It is just over a mile long and was opened in 1796. It is wide enough for boats to pass sometimes with difficulty if you happen to be on a bend. Lights on the front of each boat show the way in the darkness. We had nearly stopped to let a boat get by but his bow glanced off ours and hit the side of the tunnel! He had several lights and complained that our one was too bright! On our return we passed four boats with no problems. The Crick Tunnel was opened in 1814, is dead strait and just less than a mile long. Both tunnels were difficult to dig due to quicksand.
STAIRCASE
LOCKS
The Watford Locks are narrow. Seven in total to rise up 52 feet 6 inches to reach 412 feet above sea level. We are required to find the lock keeper before proceeding because 4 locks form a 'stair case' and is very steep. Once a boat is in it has to go through first before another can enter from the other direction. Good job there is a Lock keeper to control the boaters! Each lock shares a gate with the next. The boat moves from one lock directly into the next. There are side pounds into which water from the higher lock is stored for the lower lock. An extra side paddle, painted red, is opened first to feed water from the side pound into the lower lock. Then you open the white side paddle to empty the lock into the side paddle. The phrase "RED before WHITE and you'll be all right" helps. It is just as well the resident lock keeper is on hand for advice!
CRICK MOORINGS ?
At Crick the new visitor moorings were inviting bit there are many rocks lurking under water preventing boats getting near the edge. The local marina holds an annual boat show but the facilities are private the rest of the year. The village has a shop and a Post Office. We stayed the night, turned and returned to Braunston where we were lucky to find a space. After shopping I set about painting the side of the boat below the gunwale. You need a spell of dry weather, a hard edge without weeds and a 'round toit' to do the job.
RIDGE FIELDS
The ridge fields near Braunston are an ancient landscape, medieval ridge and furrow field patterns are in evidence. These were created as villagers cleared forested land and each ploughed strips throwing soil towards the centre. Gradually a collection of strips, all running parallel to each other, made up a furlong or cultura. This was then enclosed by a low bank. Fields, consisting of dozens of furlongs, were then fenced. I find it incredible that these fields can still be seen.
MEDICATION
Ann has been suffering from large blisters which started as an itchy rash. Rang the NHS help line on Sunday. May be a reaction from leather shoes worn without socks. Went to see the nurse at Daventry. Got some pills and a foot wash which seems to be clearing it up after a week. Went for a walk near All Oaks Wood. Lots of wild flowers about by the tow path. Tried to identify some purple flowers which maybe Tufted Vetch and Wood Bitter Vetch. Whatever they are it was good for Ann to walk with shoes again.
BLACKBURY AND APPLE
Have now started picking blackberries but have not found an apple tree yet. We head north again from Braunston to Nuneaton for we have another invitation. This time to a Golden Wedding Anniversary. On the way we stop at our favourite places. Rugby, to shop in Tesco. All Oaks Wood, to write and plan the next trip. On to the Coventry Canal and calling in to shop at Nuneaton before stopping near Springwood Haven. We are 3 days early. An enjoyable trip in sunshine. It is noticeable how busy the canal is this month with school holidays and many more families out and about. Duckweed is again covering the canal with a green carpet. All the way from 'Stretton Stop' on the Oxford canal to Nuneaton on the Coventry canal. At least 10 miles of it looking like mushy pea soup in places.
PASSING FRIENDS
Militza came by on her bike. She and John live on At Last in Springwood Haven Marina. We invited her in for a chat and a drink. They are working in Nuneaton, enjoy cycling and are looking forward to a holiday on their boat. Happy to look after the flower pots on our roof as they did the last time we stayed. So we moved the boat into the Marina, collected the car, packed clothes, cat & dog into car, left the boat and headed for Winchester for a few days and went to the Anniversary party.
FAMILY VISITS
We returned with Mum and took her to Atherstone where she stayed in the 'Red Lion Hotel'. Brod and Donat joined her later that evening while we returned to the boat. Unpacked clothes, cat & dog and repacked the fridge with food. Next day we returned the car, went shopping and walked back to the boat along the canal. The contrast between noisy busy roads and quiet canal reminded us once again why we are so happy living on our boat.
Moved the boat up to Atherstone to pick up family waiting by the locks. Donat was picked up earlier as he had walked some way down the canal. Once all aboard we turned round to proceed to Nuneaton. Mum was looking forward to seeing the well kept gardens on the edge of the canal. Stopped at the marina to get more diesel before continuing. Having seen the gardens it took some time to get to the turning point some way from the edge of town and stopped for dinner on our return. It was a long day, we had done 7 hours, returning in the dark!
After a second night in the hotel and a good cooked breakfast our guests got back to the boat for a trip down the locks. Brod took a bike in the car down to Bradley Green. Several boats were waiting to go down the locks. We had got down to lock 4 when Brod rode up. Seven more locks to go. Then we had lunch. Walked down to the bridge to find the car and said good by to them all.
TO
WILLINGTON
Navigation note:- Atherstone to Willington, 35 miles, 22 locks.
Then Ann C. rang. They can visit us at Willington at the end of the week! We get our skates on to get there in three days, moving 5 hours each day. We normally move 2 or 3. Willington is on the Trent & Mersey, turn right at Fradley Junction and on to new territory for us passing Burton on Trent with it's 'lovely' smelly breweries. Found a space to stop by the bridge. There is a handy car park to leave the van. It did'nt take them long to find us from near Ashbourne where they were camping. Ann, George, Pete and Joy got on board and we turned round to travel back to Burton where The Mill House provided lunch. It was a sunny day to start with but after lunch there was a thunder storm and we sheltered under a bridge for ten minutes on our way back. Luckily finding our space again by the bridge. After tea and cake they returned to their camp site.
EREWASH
?
A more leisurely pace gets us to the end of the Trent and Mersey at Shardlow where the River Derwent joins the River Trent. Lots of calm water takes us to Trent Lock and up to the Erewash Canal. We found that the water was a bit low above the next lock so we moored up at Long Eaton. Several boats passed by were warned but they continued. Later several boats came back! Every time they used the lock it was getting worse. Some yobo's had drained the canal further up despite the fact that the locks had tamper proof gear.
Some effort was being made to sort out the problem by the local British Waterway Lock Keeper. While we waited we arranged to meet our friends from back home who were on holiday near Barrow upon Soar. Terry & Myra drove up from their boat at Ventnor Farm the next day. They helped us up through the lock and back on an aborted attempt to proceed up the canal. Had to reverse back through the lock.
A turning point was three locks up and if the water level did not improve we were prepared to reverse half a mile to a turning point. A few days later the water was seen flowing past the lock having returned it's normal level. So we took the boat up to Sandiacre Lock, turned and returned. Men fishing by the lock and yob's on the bridge made us feel unwelcome. Another boat came down with us which made us feel more secure. We stopped at Long Eaton again as we were waiting for some post.
RIVER TRENT
When we got our post we were off down to Trent Lock where several house boats were moored nearby. So much better at the start of the canal where the River Trent passes by below. A public park provided a good walk to see boats down on the Trent. A boat owner encouraged us to venture down the Trent towards Nottingham.
This we did next day. Everything is so much bigger. The locks are deep and the river is very w i d e. It was quite calm and after an hour we had had enough. Nothing to see but lots of water and river banks and it was raining! Did see several Herons though. Took two hours to get back to below Trent Lock where we had lunch. There is a large expanse of water here with four ways to go. Trent & Mersey, Erewash, River Trent and River Soar.
RIVER SOAR
So we now go south on the River Soar. After a night at Kegworth we arrived at Loughbourgh where we found superb moorings. The river by passes the town so we are on a canal section. This river is much smaller than the Trent with several places to moor. September now and suddenly it seems, there are less boats about. It is getting cooler and we have had the radiators on a few times. We cleaned the chimney and got the fire ready. It has been lit after an occasional damp day.
A TALE OF TWO CITIES
Loughborough. We found the visitor moorings with a park on one side and private gardens on the other. Well lit with plenty of grass and an excellent path. All clean and tidy. Trees and bushes hide low factory buildings. Many local people walking by with their dogs, prams and babies. We had gone up through a lock which enabled us to join a canal section while the River Soar takes it's own course. The canal rejoins the river at a lock on the other side of town. There were plenty of good shops and a Launderette which we used. We also paid a visit to Taylor's Bell Foundry. They have been making bells for churches in the town since the 1850's. We were shown round on Sunday and saw how the castings were made and tuned. We would go again in the week in the hope to see molten metal being poured but we never did.
Leicester. The 'tow path telegraph' had informed us about this town. Many of the locks have tamper proof locks on them because some inhabitants try to open the locks and let the water out. The navigable river passes through the middle with many different bridges crossing it. The north side is quite rural with the River Soar spreading out. Then a lot of tall brick factories grow up from the very edge of the river. Leicester is known for it's dye production and in the past the effluent went into the river making it black and passed through from south to north. Thankfully it is clean now but the town seems to have turned it's back on the river. Much is fenced off with few places to stop. The canal & river navigation was rebuilt in the 19th. century as part of the flood prevention system. It took us 9 hours to get from Birstall in the north to Kilby in the south, a distance of 13 miles with 16 locks which we managed in one hard day without stopping.
PROFESSIONAL
BOATERS
We were joined near Kilby by Brenda and Ron on their boat Duke. Ron is a retired British Waterways man and knows all the canals like the back of his hand. It is a revelation to watch them handle the boat through locks and we saw many tricks of the trade.
Walked across a ridge field to Fleckney to find a Post Office and Co-op. Then we got to Foxton Junction. Here an arm takes the canal off to Market Harborough while a flight of narrow locks takes the canal south to join the Grand Union Main Line. There is a Boat yard here and as the engine was due for a service I made enquiries. "Come back tomorrow at 9" they said. Next day the engine got it's oil changed at exactly 750 hours ! Also got more diesel as the tank was half full.
Had a bacon butty in the local pub before exploring the site of the Foxton Inclined Plane. This was built in 1900 to enable wide barges to bypass the narrow locks. It was capable of raising two narrow boats to the top in about 12 minutes while one boat took 45 minutes to go up through the locks. It remained viable for only ten years. Plans to widen the locks at Watford never materialised because the expected increase in traffic to the wide Grand Union did not happen.
"NINE ELEVEN"
We moved on down the canal and stopped by a bridge. Some Americans, who had just hired a boat from Market Harborough, moored nearby. It was about 3'clock and I went inside to turn on the radio and heard the horrible unbelievable news. The rest of the day was spent watching events on television. Just could not tell the Americans. The world may not be the same again.
LEICESTER RING
Next day we went on down to Market Harborough. There is a private marina at the end. Room to turn round and moor back on the narrow canal as there was no room in the marina. BW were rebuilding the visitor moorings which were found to be a bit shallow. The town itself was well worth staying for.
Return to Foxton, turn left and go up the locks taking an hour to the summit level of 412 ft. which continues for 20 miles before reaching Watford. There are two tunnels. One at Husbands Bosworth and one at Crick. Between the two an arm goes off to Welford which has a reservoir which stores water for the canal. Of course we went down to Welford where there was a boat yard with useful facilities. The village was small and we walked round the huge reservoir.
When we arrived at Crick near the end of the month we had completed the 'Leicester ring' started in July. A circle of several interconnecting canals covering counties such as Warwickshire, Staffordshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire. We have travelled on the Grand Union, Oxford, Coventry and Trent & Mersey canals as well as on the River Trent and River Soar.
TRAVEL WITH FRIENDS
Our friends met us at Crick in their boat Butty Lark , stayed a night and went on to Welford. We stayed 5 nights, picked up our post and got some more coal from a passing working boat and butty.
Moved south from Crick to Norton Junction and joined the Grand Union - Main Line. Myra cut my hair with her electric trimmer. Then we went to a pub for a meal. Next day we took the boats down through several wide locks past Buckby and went on to Weedon. The canal here is quite high and the road passes under it. We look over the top of the local church sandwiched between the canal and the railway which is just as high as we are. The bell ringers provided a loud musical interlude in the afternoon.
Proceeded to Bugbrooke for our planned visit by Pete and Deanna at the weekend. Arranged for our post to be sent to the post office and went up to the Surgery for medical requirements. Ann got a flue jab. This village is well spread out with no real centre but one to go back to for good walks.
Pete & Deanna arrived Saturday lunch time and we travelled back the way we came. Stopped for a walk round Weedon, before proceeding further to moor up for the night. Deanna provided the dinner in our galley. The following day we continued to Whilton. Had to go up through one lock where the boat can be turned round. 'Found me self on me own'. For every body had abandoned ship. Including the dog! The 'turn' was between two locks on a short pound and it proved to be difficult as it was very shallow. Needed to get back to Bugbrooke for lunch at the pub but the fishermen conspired to slow us down. Luckily there was more than one pub to choose from as the first was full. After the meal they went home.
GRAND UNION
Navigation note:- Bugbrooke to Leighton Buzzard, 32 miles, 14 locks.
From Bugbrooke we travelled south with Terry & Myra on the Grand Union Canal in October. Through the longest? tunnel at Blisworth to Stoke Bruerne. The tunnel is nearly 2 miles long and took 40 minutes to get through. Then down several wide locks. The canal then passes over the Great Ouse River between Cosgrove and Old Woolverton.
We approach Milton Keynes from the north and turn east to go round it. There is an old wind mill on the hill and the view from there looking down towards Milton Keynes shows only trees. We stopped for supplies at Woolverton which is an old railway town on the edge of Milton Keynes. We moved on a short distance to get away from the noisy railway for the night at Stone bridge. We are already impressed by the clean canal and the fact that it is so rural. The planners of this new city have shown great respect for the old canal. The next day got us to Linford Wharf. Here we get fresh water and dump our rubbish. In the past many boats loaded and unloaded cargo for Newport Pagnell. The branch of canal has long since gone.
WILLEN LAKES
The canal turns south still lined by trees and open park land. The original old brick bridges remain numbered from 68 to 99 and covering a distance 11 miles. Many new bridges have been built, some for roads and some for paths numbered 79A, 79B etc. The roads of Milton Keynes form a grid about 1/2 a mile apart. Some blocks contain woodland and lakes. Bridge 88 caries a Bridle way and cycle track which goes over and under roads providing a safe walkway. We stopped at Bridge 88A to find a path to Willen Lake 15 minutes walk from the canal. The lake was created to prevent flooding in Milton Keynes. The lake is huge, surrounded by paths and landscaped with grass, bushes and trees. A good place to relax, have a picnic and watch the ducks, swans and geese.
We continued our travels through Bletchley, Fenny Stratford and stopped at Leighton Buzzard where we celebrated our friends wedding anniversary at a pub there. The town held an historical event at the weekend. People were dressed in Victorian clothes and a steam engine was driving an old fairground organ playing music. The mayor and town crier were there telling us about the history of the town. We got provisions at the Farmers Market and flowers for our roof pots from the market stall.
The canal continues south passing Marsworth, Hemel Hempstead and Watford on the way to London. We will continue that way another time but for now we turn to return. November is the start of British Waterways winter maintenance programme. Many locks and parts of the canal system will be closed to navigation. So we head back to Braunston on our own as our friends had already left.
WORKING BOATS
We have got some more coal from a boat. It is surprising how many original working boats there are from the 1930's. With their iron sides, elm bottoms and reconditioned diesel engines. Some are privately owned while some belong to narrow boat trusts. Painted on their sides are the names of the original carriers like 'Fellows, Morton and Clayton' and 'Grand Union Canal Carrier Co.'. They are still being used to transport coal, wood, diesel, recycled material, aggregates and even new lock gates.
STOKE
BRUERNE
Half term week saw more activity on the canal even in October. At Stoke Bruerne a trip boat moved up and down many times between the tunnel and the lock and the museum had many visitors. Stayed there for the night before passing through the tunnel next day then a few days at Bugbrooke . There are several paths to the village. One passes through a community garden where you can sit and enjoy the good weather.
We were with Butty Lark as we go up the Buckby flight of locks and were leaving a lock when we noticed that the next lock was being emptied. A bridge obscured our view and all we could see was the gates opening slowly but no boats come out! Once under the bridge with the boat nearly in the lock we saw the green BW men. "Did a couple of ghost boats come out?" we asked as it was Halloween.
Ann had made a Christmas pudding for us, then the gas ran out so we changed over to the other bottle. Got another bottle later at Whilton marina before going up the Buckby flight of locks to Norton Junction. Purchased some more coal off Ivor Batchellor on his boat Mountbatten. He and wife Mel were here waiting for another delivery of coal from his supply lorry. We have enjoyed a warm October with more sunny days than rainy ones but it is getting cooler at night so we try to keep the fire going in the evenings.
WINTER SHUTDOWN
For British Waterways, November is the start of 5 months repair and maintenance work. We have a long list of stoppages so we can avoid the closures with careful planning. A lot of work has been carried over from last year when the 'Foot n Mouth' outbreak stopped it all. At Braunston a section of canal between two bridges was drained of water so we are unable to go down the south Oxford canal. The canal passes over a small river and the weir and flood gates have been leaking for some time. A dam was constructed at each bridge using planks of wood pushed down into the water and held in slots. It was strange to see the empty canal. I say empty meaning no water but it is amazing how much rubbish is stuck in the mud. Old tyres, batteries, spades, buckets, scrap metal and old fence posts.
BRAUNSTON VISITORS
Several old boats had to move into Braunston before the canal was drained. While we were there one pulled up in front of us and stayed the night. Two men and a young boy lived on board. Together with a dog. One man was seen walking off with a spade and returning 10 minutes later! While the young boy 'watered' the canal! Their breakfast consisted of burnt toast most of which was fed to the ducks. The engine was started with a handle, grey smoke ensued from the exhaust and they were away.
WINTER
We've spent much of November travelling between Braunston and Rugby and went down to Napton to see the fireworks with Terry and Myra. We left them at Calcutt and went our separate ways. Back up at Rugby we stopped at different places and discovered new walks into town where we did the Christmas shopping. Got ourselves one of those energy saving light bulbs. It give out 60 watts of white light for only 11 watts in. So we can see better colours on the jig saw puzzles. We have a wind up radio in the cabin tuned to Classic FM. Don't have to turn it off at night because it just runs out.
We have settled down into the winter months which are testing our resolve. But the last couple of months have presented us with some potential financial problems to sort out as our letting agent ceased trading. It's a bit much getting caught up with yet another company which was not viable. Good will and trust appear on the surface and all the protection seems to be for the provider. 'Buyer Beware'. So we have decided to employ another one. Our tenant is happy with this and we have been able to replace the oven in the bungalow. So at least we can continue with this way of life.
PRE CHRISTMAS
Left the boat in Braunston Marina for a week and Pete & Deanna came to fetch us. It was good to see the family again, all together at the pre Christmas party. An opportunity to exchange cards and presents. George & Ann giving us room, board and transport. We were able to see our new agent who was very pleasant and happy to look after our interests.
COLD N ICY
When Chris & Tracy returned us we found ice on the 'cut'. The boat was cold inside as you can imagine so we set about lighting the fire, opening windows and cupboards. We have been advised to leave a couple of windows open next time. We've since noticed that the hire boats are left with windows open. Then we got invited into a boat nearby in the marina. Bob & Jane on Hobo gave us a cup of tea while we chatted. Their boat was the first new one to be launched on to the Kennet & Avon since it was opened in 1990.
We then moved out of the marina, got more coal and water and found a space near The Mill House where we stayed to the end of the year! The ice on the canal usually clears by mid morning after several boats have gone by breaking it up. It is quite noisy against the side of the boat. The broken sheets move over each other and make loud crunching noises. The weekend before Christmas saw several hire boats moving about. Most routes from Braunston are open to a limited extent. It is possible to go south to Napton where the locks will be closed during January and February. The North Oxford is clear all the way to the Coventry canal and Polesworth. While the route north to Leicester and south to Bugbrooke on the Grand Union is closed. We had hoped to go south to make it easier for visitors but it would be March before we could start. We have been advised to go north early in order to miss the crowds on the Llangollen Canal.
CHRISTMAS
ON BOARD
Either side of Christmas saw our boat in ice again. The ducks slide about on the flat slippery surface. We woke and put the radiators on and stoked up the fire. Christmas day was warmer and bright. Several boats were out and about. We opened our presents and had a traditional lunch. Went for a walk in the afternoon in bright sunshine. Then watched the Queen on TV.
It was very windy a few days later so we saw the water change from flat smooth ice to 6 inch waves in a few days. Charles was 60 on the 30th. Mum, Chris & Tracy came up to celebrate in The Mill House where they stayed the night. The last day of the year found us iced in again. The temperature went down to -7c. We were invited onto Bramble. Our hosts G and M provided drinks and food through to the new year. Some fire works were let off in the field on the other side of the canal while the church bells rang in the new year.
BOAT NAMES
"What's in a Name", from a leaflet published by Braunston marina. Choosing a name is clearly a NECESSITY and for some it's NO PROBLEM but for others it results in a lot of ARGY-BARGY which can lead to DIRE STRAITS. The choice MEANDER makes it pretty clear that they are sharing, while OURS leaves no room for doubt. Some dont worry about choosing a name at all, saying that there is MOORE TO LIFE. But clearly, for most people, choosing the right name gives great SATISFACTION and in every case the boat is PRICELESS and certainly NOT FOR SALE.
CURRENCY
The EURO has arrived. The big 'EE'. How long will it be before we forget those 12 old currencies like the Frank, Mark, Punt, Lira, Guilder, Escudo etc. and which country used them? At the start of 2002 the E is worth 62p. Or to put it another way, the £ is worth E1.61. Back in the 15th. century the use of European coinage was popular on the south coast of England because it was considered better value! We were arguing about the colour of roses at the time, if you know what I mean !
Thank you for reading Chapter 6. Now you can read Chapter 7 or return to Book.