WATER TANK
This is usually up front under the deck. It contains about 150 to 200
gallons. (500 ltrs) Much more than this and the weight of water will lower
the bow too far into the canal. Ideally you need the bow slightly higher
than the stern. This amount of water can last up to two weeks for two
people. Best practice is to top it up frequently with fresh water which
usually takes less than half an hour.
Integral Tank
This is formed as part of the bow and made of steel. It needs to be painted
inside so has an inspection hatch. You must use the correct fresh water
grade potable bitumen paint.
Separate Tank
Usually made of stainless steel but slightly less capacity than the integral
tank. Needs no painting inside.
WATER PUMP
A pump, with a pressure switch, produces the water pressure on the boat.
It is usually installed near the water tank. An air filled accumulator
is fitted to the water pipe near the pump to prevent the pump hammering.
A filter on the pump stops debris from going through the pump. This needs
cleaning occasionally. When you turn on a tap the pump will maintain the
pressure while delivering the water.
HEATING
Hot Tank, or Calorifier
This tank is usually under the bed near the back of the boat. The bed
benefits from the warmth even though the tank is well insulated. It can
also be fitted in a wardrobe but this would be a waste of accessible space.
The tank has two heating coils inside, one fed from the engine and the
other from another source of heat. It can also be fitted with an immersion
heater for use when connected to a land line. It is fed from the cold
water supply and delivers hot water to the taps. The usual 10 gallons
should get very hot after running the engine for about half an hour.
Coal / Wood Fires
These are very effective at keeping the boat warm. The chimney provides
ventilation and gets rid of condensation quickly. Coal is available from
boaters or town suppliers. The best type of coal for your fire is discovered
by trial and error. You do need a fair amount of storage space for the
fuel. Wood can be 'found', sawn and chopped into logs. They do not normally
provide hot running water. A kettle of water left on top can remain just
off the boil.
Diesel Fires
These are similar to the coal fires in that they are in the saloon and
have a chimney. Oil is drip fed into a pot and once ignited vaporizes
and should produce a blue flame. The amount of fuel used is about 0.2
litre an hour. The design of the chimney has some effect on the way the
oil burns. If too short, not enough air is drawn through to produce the
blue flame. A double skinned outer chimney keeps the flue gasses warm
and encourages the draw.
Back Boiler
The fires can be fitted with a back boiler to feed a few radiators to
spread the heat to the other end of the boat. Large diameter pipe allows
the heat to move by convection. Small pipe requires a reliable pump. There
must be a safety pressure release valve near the fire. Unfortunately if
the pump fails the boiler tank may explode without that safety valve.
Diesel Boilers
These are fitted in the engine bay and plumbed into the central heating
system to heat water and radiators. They use a lot of battery power to
startup and run. Once the temperature has reached a preset heat the boiler
goes into lo heat mode. Best not to run for less than an hour otherwise
the boiler may fail to startup. The usual failures are caused by a dirty
glow plug, loose or broken fuses.
Gas Heater
These must all be room sealed. In other words they use air from outside
the boat and vent the exhaust outside. They use a lot of gas. Some just
heat water instantaneously while others can heat radiators and provide
hot water.
Radiators
These can be gravity fed or have a circulating pump. The gravity fed
system should have large bore pipes at least 28 mm diameter pipe and the
hot side should be as high as possible. The pumped system can have 22
mm pipes. Both systems will have a header tank. A pipe thermostat should
be fitted to the outlet pipe of the boiler to turn on the pump. The system
should be filled with a 50% antifreeze mixture. The radiators should be
bled occasionally to expel air and if found to have brown water the system
should be flushed out otherwise the pump will fail.
SINKS, BASINS, BATHS, SHOWERS and WASHING MACHINES
All these drain outside the boat of course. The outlets should be at
least 6 inches above the waterline. The bath or shower will need a pump
to lift the waste water out which is switched manually. An automatic system
uses a small tank with a float switch to pump the water out when the plug
is pulled. But these become unreliable as the tank gets dirty.
TOILETS
Cassette types
These can be portable with one cassette or fixed with exchangeable cassettes.
Four cassettes would be plenty for two people. One cassette would last
about a week. The fixed type will have a water feed and 'full' indicator.
Disposal is usually free and facilities are frequent on the canal system.
Holding Tank (Pump Out)
The tank can be under the bed but will make the boat lean over when
full. Would be better across the boat at the back. The toilet will have
flushing water and a macerator pump. Disposal at pump out stations will
be charged for but working facilities may be unreliable.
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